Turning Hr Steel

Doing it for a living, definitely makes a difference in one's approach, and generally means stouter, and higher quality machines to do the work. On my 12" Craftsman I have also made good use of a file and emery cloth to get a good finish. I'm looking forward to eliminating some of those steps with the new to me TOS I've yet use. The great thing about this forum, Is that you get so many different, and valid approaches to to the same issue. Mike

Always more than one way to skin a cat.

Yes I always encourage beginners to experiment with HSS tools, mess around with with rakes and clearance angles, when I was an apprentice only the senior toolmakers could have carbide tips, there were no inserts just brazed pieces on a steel shank. I experimented with HSS and found that I preferred some tools that did not fit the text book shape, but they worked for me.

Al;os make sure your tool is on center, It's better to be slightly below than above, on center is best.Also check the gibbs are as tight as possible without binding, and make sure there is no wear in head stock bearings, adjust if possible, if not replace them.
 
When I took up this hobby I was only using HSS tooling and turning it slowly, just to make sure I didn't break anything or do something stupid. Over time I have found out that the first answer to a poor finish is to try to increase the speeds and feeds. I was able to go seemingly a couple of magnitudes above where I started, and the finish just kept getting better. Eventually I found the limit, but I learned to not give the metal time to flow and tear. It comes off clean before it has a chance to deform. It seems to make the metal act harder than it actually is. I also found out that by using that approach my projects get done a lot faster. Using a speed and feed chart is also a great way to get an idea of where to start. Try starting about 20% slower than the chart says, and if that goes well, try speeding it up...
 
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