Turning steel for the first time (after years experience with non ferrous) generic advice?

[r-mm]

Hi all

I've gotten quite comfortable using my PM1030 to do all sorts of operations on alum from turning to facing to boring to parting etc. In all that time I have not once cut steel. I know there are lots of technical feeds and speeds charts out there but if I'm honest I go on sound and sight. Does someone have a generic "here's what you should change" kind of way of helping me get my head into cutting steel?

I exclusively use these C2 carbide tipped tools from McMaster on alum. For steel I'd likely get the same set but in "C6" carbide which are listed as appropriate for steel: https://www.mcmaster.com/3367A16/

What type of steel? Generic, weldable alloys is about as far as I can say. My first project is to make a replacement for this part which is both a pivot for this window regulator as well as a means of locating the clock spring (original is pot metal).

 

[Eddyde]

To start, just go slower, take less depth of cut and less feed until you get the feel for it. Then you can increase F&S until you find the optimum rate for the steel and tool you are working with.
High Speed Steel tools will generally give a better finish than carbide.

 

[markba633csi]

You might want to learn to grind your own HSS tools- it's a valuable skill to have and not difficult
All you need is a small bench grinder

 

[Ulma Doctor]

brazed carbide lathe bits out of the box are nearly useless.
They generally don’t have any relief angles ground into the tool form, which creates issues.
Insert tooling is far superior out of the box.
Cobalt HSS (HSSE) blanks can also be easily formed into excellent cutting tools that can cut just about anything you are likely to be working

 

[Ulma Doctor]

A good rule of thumb is 70 SFM and a moderate depth of cut around.020” for mild steels for HSS tooling
Carbide tools can be pushed further, but lack of rigidity in your machine will prevent much better performance

 

[Karl_T]

I prefer the bits you referenced for steel. But they must be sharpened first. I use a grinder just for this. here's an eBay offer showing one:

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Do secondary relief at about 8 degrees with a green wheel, then just touch up slightly with primary relief at 4 degrees using a diamond wheel.

This makes steel cut like butter. sharpening is the key here.

I normally run these dry and just turn the speed up till the chips come off starting to darken or turn blue.