Slitting/slotting Saws What Brand/retailer?

I agree with the post from mikey about Cleveland. I apprenticed in a shop and Cleveland tooling was the only tools we had for almost everything. I don't know if the quality is the same as it was in the 70's and 80's when I was most active but they get my vote. Anything hss and Made in America catches my eye, especially when it's within my budget.
 
Get yourself a Machinery Handbook, they have formula's and so much more for playing with metals. I have my dads and info hasn't change a whole heck of a lot in all those years. If you machine this is a great reference.
 
As chevydyl said, cut full depth, use the same formula you use for calculating any other cutter, and try to have 2 - 3 teeth engaged in the work.
It is a good idea to make a light cut about .005" - .010" deep when making a deeper cut. The blade will flex as it cuts from both heat and pressure, scoring the cut first helps guide the saw blade into the kerf.
Depth of cut is just limited to horse power. You can only go so slowly before there is just too much heat being taken up by the blade. Like any other milling, the chip should carry the heat away, if the cut is progressing too slowly, the hot chip stays in the kerf too long and heats the tool.
In practice, just go for it. Worst case you ruin a blade.
 
What do y'all recommend for cutting oil/lube. We ALWAYS used sulphur based oil where I worked.
 
That's what I use too cause I get it from work, I use dark and light Rigid cutting oil that we use on pipe threading machines, the dark is for slower heavier cuts I believe
 
How does, the 2 or 3 tooth rule work for long deep slots? In a long slot you will have 1/4 to almost 1/2 the teeth engaged in the cut.

I do have a machinery hand book but it's at home, it will be 2 or 3 days till I can look at it.
 
Can these saws be used on smaller mills like mine (Pm 932)? I only saw guys using these on larger industrial machines so far (at work) .
 
Of course they can, the thicker the blade the more demanding they become, requiring more rigidity and power to make the cut. I have a blade that is like .080 thick, it's referred to as a jewelers saw, jewelers use mini machines.....
 
I have been working on a tangential toolholder. I'm starting with a 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 4 block. Can I use a slitting saw to cut it down to the "L" shape to fit in a QCTP toolholder? How would I deal with the corner?

My other choices are to chain drill it, and mill to smooth, or mill the entire section out?

Suggestions? Recommendations?
 
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