Rebuilt my SB10 HEAVY, quite the beast she is, pretty to...

It's been several months, and I have just about completed the project, but thought I'd go ahead and share some photos as I close in on the completion. I have enjoyed the work, but I can safely state that she will be my last, given the time and cost of such work. Let's get started...









She sure looked better in the pictures than in person, but we'll take care of that...(pics here are better than she was, honestly)





















Thanks shipping company...




More fun times ahead...


Red, reall? Man, that should be illegal...


That motor will have to go...




That's just not going to cut if for me...




Here we go...More coats than an Eskimo


















She's pretty under there...(stainless can be eaten by rust, but I stopped the cancer in its tracks by getting down to the metal)












The rust was pretty well socked in there...










































Dang thing was warped, but I managed to remove and square the gears...









































Sanded, and filled, sanded again, primed, then painted. I wanted this piece to be far prettier than it should be--I'll be looking at it often...

















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Painting time...








Industrial Primer, two coats, then paint...
















Rust under the label, of all places. I replaced this with a laminated version that looks incredible, and it is a scanned copy of the original. No more muss or fuss...

















Cleaned oilers, new tape and wicks...






Made controller box for VFD from a solid block of 6061 Aluminum using my CNC machine...























I have not mounted it yet, as I have been unable to determine exactly where I want it.






I created a support plate to mount the Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) and resistor, then machined it and clear-coated it to prevent oxidizing...

As you can see, it required a lot of drilling and measuring, but the result is very impressive; I can take the panel down as needed for servicing...








You can also see the upgraded 1 HP motor, and the brake resistor to the right. I also took the opportunity to mount an auxillary power outlet for lighting and
anything I cannot anticipate at this moment.


















Flash fuses and switching for a power cut-off switch that'll will allow me to control power to the motor.






I slaved the external power box for other ancillary accessories off the main power block.



I sanded the doors down to the metal, and like them so much that I decided to leave them that way, with a mish-mash design and clear-coat...I'm not happy with one door,
so I'll be reclear-coating it. One has more mirror finish than the other--just the way I am. I'll also be clear coat protecting them with 5mm clear chemical resistant silicone--the entire doors. So any spills or kicks or scuffs will not harm the finish. It's the same stuff they use on sports cars to protect them from gravel etc.









It seemed appropriate to polish the plugs as well--adds a nice touch in my opinion...



Replaced the crappy door plugs as well to be sure when the door is closed, there is no rattle, and there isn't. Love the look of new on old...







The old plaques were unacceptable, and unreadable. So in with the new...







What a difference that makes...

















I added a pull-push switch between power and the VFD. But it was a little nasty so I cleaned it up...













New Three Phase Motor to run off the VFD...















Liquid and checmical reistant plug. I kept it short so it doesn't bang against my lathe or its panels. My power comes from above so it works great.







I also added cabinet door triggered cabinet lighting. I hate not being able to see what is in there when I'm looking for a tool...



I also placed anohter light over the VFD box, near the belts and other electrical--I can never have to much light...



I mounted four heavy duty caster/foot wheels so the machine can be moved when needed, and I have already used them several times and absolutely love them. I can lower the feet to support the machine completely. The capacity is 2 tons. I understand some have had issues with wheels, so I am hoping the feet can provide the stability I need. THus far, no problems at all. Very pleased, but not cheap.









I have a massive amount of pictures detailing the process, I chose to keep it to an album, and not a novel. I plan to add more, and a video of the machine in use soon. The whole unit pics to come soon...Cheers~

Wow, that's a lot of work! While I love looking at the machines after all those man-hours, I would never consider doing it myself as I probably don't have the skills let alone the patience.

Living vicariously through others...

Bill

Very nice machine! You received in a condition that most would drool over....what's really impressive is that you have managed to make this lathe look "better than new"......I agree, the new on old look is pretty awesome. There are some purists out there who would disagree, but I think if you're going to use the lathe then you might as well add convenient features. Some machines are meant for museums, others can be given a useful life in a hobbyist's garage.

The original registration states:

She went into service December 27, 1971 at Packard.

Thanks Bill, Steve and Bill.

I viewed the project as a process, and somewhat of therapy. When I work on the machine, my mind solves problems unrelated to the machine and its workings. When I was younger and competed in triathlons, I ran, rode my back and swam. I had a lot of time to think, and work through issues etc. My joints are no longer able to sustain me in such events. This work allows me the same mental centering that I so much need.

As for the machine and its improvements, and the purists, I spent a lot of time doing the traditional cleaning and replacing shims, washers, bolts, screws, etc. However, there are things I felt the machine could have that would provide for more enjoyable use, yet still maintain the rigidity with more power, infinite adjustability and many conveniences.

The hours and money spent on the lathe are certainly worth noting, and probably the reason I will not do it again. But it is a work of art in my eyes--it's quiet, powerful, tight, clean and man can it rip through metal like a beaver.

A huge THANK YOU to my friend, David (Kozzmo) Kramer in Chicago--His knowledge and experience was invaluable. He provided great insight/advice. :man:

Wow! An inspiring piece of work!

I just started my project this afternoon. How did you manage to remove the oil cup from the tailstock casting? Mine hits before making a full turn.

(spastic finger)

I know, I hear you. I initially could not remove it. But once I lifteed the cap up and twisted it counter-clockwise, I realized how much paint was in there. So I scraped it out with a screwdriver. Then as I turned it, there is an inset sleeve that screws into the casting itself that started coming out. So that made my job real easy. I ended up brass brushing the threads, then taping and reinstalling them. Check it out and let me know...

Halfnuts said:

Wow! An inspiring piece of work!

I just started my project this afternoon. How did you manage to remove the oil cup from the tailstock casting? Mine hits before making a full turn.

Click to expand...

Are you sure you're not talking about the headstock spindle? I'm talking about the tailstock spindle oil cup. I know the headstock spindle oil cup on the right side screws into a plug that is pressed into the headstock casting, and lots of people have expressed their frustration removing that one. But my problem right now (remember, I just started today), is removing the oil cup from the tailstock casting. This one appears to be screwed directly into the casting. No evidence of any plug. I suppose I can strip the paint with it in place, but I'd prefer to remove it so I can seal the threads.

Here's some photos I just shot:

Are you certain it is threaded and not press fit? I can't tell either way from the pictures.

Terry