110v Light Wiring On 220v 3phase Lathe?

The light on my 3 phase lathe was 24VAC running off a step down transformer connected between 2 of the legs of the power. The supplied work light on these are 24V, AC or DC, usually 50 or 70W bulb. Since I switched mine out to a VFD, I got rid of the transformer and replaced it with a 100W 24VDC PWM power supply (REIGNPOER / NL1100D-24) , which runs off of any voltage 100-240VAC. I went to a LED bulb, due to much less heat, but stock bulb works fine also. A possible option if you do not have multiple items requiring 120VAC. Not very familiar with RPCs, but without a neutral you would need a dual pole switch as mentioned earlier, and there is also a matter of fusing. Lights like the one below (24 or 120VAC), use a single pole switch.

Work-Lamp-24V-50W-70W Waterproof.jpg
 
LEEQ said:
That's about it. They sell heavy gauge wire with three conductors and a ground. A red, a black, a white, and a bare wire. That's two hot legs, a neutral, and a ground. Some 220v devices run off of 220v, but have 110v controls or features. This kind of device requires that neutral leg. If that were run to the rpc, you could split off 110v from there and run it the rest of the way to the machine. Clear as mud, right? Now knowing you might relocate your converter, I would suggest just pulling a new 110v circuit over to the machine. You would be able to power more than just a light with it , too.
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What LEEQ describes with 3 colored wires & 1 bare ground is how most household electric ranges have been wired. An enclosure to accommodate terminal blocks, fuse holders or other devices can be a real benefit for future expansion or improvements to many machines. Initially connections may be made with wire nuts & fuses added with inline holders. Later things can be "prettied" up.
 
If you are wiring three phase for the motor, only the three phases need to be heavy conductors. The neutral can be smaller. Reason is that in a balanced three phase circuit, there is no current flow in the neutral at all. The neutral only effectively has to carry the current imbalance that might occur between the other phases. So the wiring to your 110V lamp can be smaller than the wiring to the motor.

Also, if you use LED lighting and a step-down transformer, make sure the LED lighting runs from AC (the output from a transformer is AC), or you need an AC to DC converter (e.g. a switch-mode power supply.)

LEDs by themselves only operate on DC current (LED: Light Emitting Diode)

I don't think two 110V lamps in series is a great idea (christmas tree light style)

Hope this helps rather than adds confusion.

Trevor
 
Daryl--as far as your--- a simple approach-----what LEEQ said about bringing a separate single phase separately from your main panel for your lighting sounds good and simple to me without mixing it in with your 3 phase---I would run 220 single phase to a box on or close to the machine so its handy for all projects 220 and 110---you can then just plug in or wire in any lighting or other electrical needs---220/110 single phase outlets are always handy on a machine or in a machine area--make it universal and handy is my objective most of the time----Dave
 
Dave Smith said:
Daryl--as far as your--- a simple approach-----what LEEQ said about bringing a separate single phase separately from your main panel for your lighting sounds good and simple to me without mixing it in with your 3 phase---I would run 220 single phase to a box on or close to the machine so its handy for all projects 220 and 110---you can then just plug in or wire in any lighting or other electrical needs---220/110 single phase outlets are always handy on a machine or in a machine area--make it universal and handy is my objective most of the time----Dave
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There is a minor hazard in running seperate 110 and 220 circuits to a machine. Someone down the road may shut off the 220 breaker, believe that he has killed all power to the machine, and go to work on the 110 wiring.
 
What I did was bring 220 into the garage and stop at the disconnect box. There are two fuses in the box. From the box I have the 220 and 110 for lights, so no power if the box is locked out. Downfall is no lights as well. Outside outlet at the house is available for 110 to bring power in while the main feed is locked out.
Pierre
 
John Hasler said:
There is a minor hazard in running seperate 110 and 220 circuits to a machine. Someone down the road may shut off the 220 breaker, believe that he has killed all power to the machine, and go to work on the 110 wiring.
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John---I meant run one single phase 220 cable to a separate box on the machine or close to it---if someone threw the 220 breaker then there would be no power on the 110 wiring-----then use a plug in cord from your light to the receptacle---no different than having a lamp plugged to a wall receptacle or an extension cord---Dave
 
The proper way to do this, by NEC, (I believe) if you want all the wiring to be in the lathe is to use a transformer within the lathe to provide the 110VAC, 24VAC or 24VDC.

The simplest alternative is to mount a 110VAC lamp onto your lathe and then plug it into a nearby wall socket.

Vlad
 
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