110v Light Wiring On 220v 3phase Lathe?

John_Dennis said:
I don't think that you can use 2 hots and no neutral on these lights.
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Sure you can. You'd need to remove the cord and plug from the first one and rewire with the correct color code (and provide a ground, of course). I wouldn't do it, though.

In the US we also have 480, which is 3Phase 177 per leg. 177+neutral is used mostly for lighting. I have never seen it used for anything else.
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I think you mean 480 phase to phase 277 phase to neutral. That's commonly used for lighting in large buildings with the lights connected phase to neutral. Gives interesting results when the electricians manage to drop the neutral halfway down a long hallway.
 
I bought some standard LED bulbs that are 110v to 22ov for 10 dollars or less. I also had the same problem and ran a neutral. I then realize the bulb was rated for 110/220 v. That was a waste of effort.
 
John Hasler said:
There is a minor hazard in running seperate 110 and 220 circuits to a machine. Someone down the road may shut off the 220 breaker, believe that he has killed all power to the machine, and go to work on the 110 wiring.
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That is true, but these types of hazards are all over commercial and residential wiring. Many multi-gang boxes have multiple circuits pulled into them. The only time the NEC requires anything special is when you bring two circuits into the same yoke...in other words a single duplex receptacle with circuit A on the top receptacle, and circuit B on the bottom. In that case you need to handle tie the breakers, or use a two pole breaker, to ensure they both get shutoff at the same time.

The NEC states and requires that all electrical work is to be done by 'qualified persons'. It seems we jump through a lot of hoops now, such as wire marking white wires as hot in switch legs now, to save the lives of 'unqualified' persons whom never should have taken the switch plate off to perform maintenance to begin with.

You are correct. There is absolutely an additional hazard by pulling a second 120V circuit to the same machine, but provided people follow proper maintenance procedures, it should be pretty minor. I wouldn't hesitate to pull a second 120V circuit if it suited my needs in this case.
 
abrace said:
That is true, but these types of hazards are all over commercial and residential wiring. Many multi-gang boxes have multiple circuits pulled into them. The only time the NEC requires anything special is when you bring two circuits into the same yoke...in other words a single duplex receptacle with circuit A on the top receptacle, and circuit B on the bottom. In that case you need to handle tie the breakers, or use a two pole breaker, to ensure they both get shutoff at the same time.
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Two circuits inside one machine is a similar situation. If you've got a two-pole breaker labeled "MILL" someone may shut it off and assume that they've killed all power to the mill. Good point about handle ties: that would deal with it.
 
John Hasler said:
Two circuits inside one machine is a similar situation. If you've got a two-pole breaker labeled "MILL" someone may shut it off and assume that they've killed all power to the mill. Good point about handle ties: that would deal with it.
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The code that applies to power to a panel or enclosure from an outside source is NFPA 79. As of the 2012 issue, power from an outside source shall be orange colored. Previous to this the mandatory color was yellow. This wouldn't prevent an unknowing person from harm, but a professional who is current with the code would be aware. NFPA writes and is responsible for the National Electric Code.
 
uncle harry said:
The code that applies to power to a panel or enclosure from an outside source is NFPA 79. As of the 2012 issue, power from an outside source shall be orange colored. Previous to this the mandatory color was yellow. This wouldn't prevent an unknowing person from harm, but a professional who is current with the code would be aware. NFPA writes and is responsible for the National Electric Code.
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A machinist troubleshooting a mechanical problem (or perhaps a difficulty with low-voltage control systems) won't see those wires. A motor that was supposed not to be powered starting up unexpectedly can do as much damage as a shock or spark. A professional electrician who should be aware might not be. If I was paying for the worker's compensation insurance I'd want handle-ties.
 
John Hasler said:
A machinist troubleshooting a mechanical problem (or perhaps a difficulty with low-voltage control systems) won't see those wires. A motor that was supposed not to be powered starting up unexpectedly can do as much damage as a shock or spark. A professional electrician who should be aware might not be. If I was paying for the worker's compensation insurance I'd want handle-ties.
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Yes, I totally agree. I was just adding some information to the pile. Thanks for clarifying any confusion.
 
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