1236 Operational Questions

You can get used 480 volt heavy duty disconnects off eBay for $25, I just bought one for my surface grinder's phase converter. I have a few commercial rated 400 and 600 amp disconnects around the shop, overrated but they last a long time under daily use. For right now my PM1236 is wired direct to my breaker box, I may add a disconnect some day. But, my breaker box is near the shop door, so no biggie.

My father bought a 2 hp on/off switch for a 2 hp belt grinder project. We are going to try using this one mounted to a wood bench, its rated 20 amps at 220 volts.: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142490505911

The PM1236 foot brake engages an actual brake with brake shoes, it cuts the power and mechanically stops it quick. Something needs adjustment. Mine stops quick when I tested it. Just get the bar adjusted where it just touches the switch, you don't need to bend the little arm. Just enough to hear it click. If the brake doesn't halt things the problem will be obvious, its a stone simple design.
 
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My 1236 does not stop instantly when the foot brake is used. Spindle coasts to a stop, the same when the chuck cover is opened...brake & cover sw. NC in the same circut

I don't see a brake device in the schematic ????

Confused!!!
 
My 1236 does not stop instantly when the foot brake is used. Spindle coasts to a stop, the same when the chuck cover is opened...brake & cover sw. NC in the same circut

I don't see a brake device in the schematic ????

Confused!!!

If yours is like my 13x40, it has a mechanical brake. The brake drum is inside the gear train cover. Mine was never connected, supposed to have a cable or lever on it to actuate, I forget which.
 
so the cable/lever... should be attached to foot pedal assy?

If you have the foot brake option, there are 3 "draw bars" in total connecting the foot pedal to the brake and kill switch. See page 2 for a pic and pages 37/ 38 of the latest manual for the "Stand and Coolant Components". I only had to attach the link bar between the upper and lower bars. The manual I downloaded off here had clear instructions. I tweaked the adjustment set screws so the kill switch was not over pushed, it took a couple tweaks of the set screws down by the pedal shaft and spring.
 
The linkage to the brake has to be attached when the lathe is installed to the base . The pedal is part of the base and the brake is part of the lathe. The two need to be connected so the linkage is complete. It sounds like the motor is shutting off but the brake is not being applied.
 
Yep. I thought that followed the instructions correctly . The linkage does not over drive the micro sw arm.
So if the brake is mechanical, do I need to press harder on the foot pedal to operate the brake?

Going out the my shop after dinner today to look at all of this again.
Tks for comments Gents
 
Fixed it.
Foot pedal was bottomed out........ Re adj....works as it should
Tks Gents
 
I'm still waiting for my PM1236 to come across the big pond but I have the owners manual to keep me pacified...
I never noticed until you brought it up but you are correct!
Dang, now I need to wire in a switch. I don't want to leave it powered up all the time. (and maybe a locking switch to make sure I'm the only kid that gets to play with my toys...

Let's say something happens while you are alone in your shop and the person showing up at your shop to help you knows nothing about machinery.
Having a switch with a big red button with the word STOP written in large letters will help them get you the help they can give.

Every 220V outlet in my shop has a
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ea3-5248-b024-f997c3d7c9eb&pf_rd_i=6369371011
between the panel and the socket.

I use these to cut all power nightly.

ETA:: My point is that you really do want that switch anyway.
 
You don't really need a power disconnect or extra switch. I put each of the 220 volt machines on a dedicated circuit, when I'm done using the lathe I just flip the breaker off.

Having a sub-panel in the shop is my solution, having a breaker panel in the same room as the equipment is ideal. When you leave the lathe for a while press the stop switch and lift the chuck guard to keep someone from bumping into the motor lever.

Make sure you leave plenty of room to the rear, the electrial panel is in back. You need access to the breakers on the lathe also, I've had to reset mine twice so far when it was cold in the shop. I put mine a little too close, I'm going to slide it away from the wall more someday. I think I'll try 3' next time, I'm a big guy and 2' is a squeeze.
 
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