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2015 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter jumps4
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2014
- Messages
- 1,531
Last night while I was waiting for a client to drop off an old Landcruiser for me to work on I completed a small item that has been bugging me for a while yet I hadn't taken the time to address it.
My work stop on my mill vise requires several different allen wrenches and a 7/16" wrench to adjust when using. This has bothered me although it isn't the end of the world. I wanted to modify it where it only required one size allen wrench to adjust. The end had a piece of 1/4"-20 threaded that required an 1/8" allen wrench and a 7/16" wrench to tighten/adjust. It then had a 5/32" allen to adjust the other two axis.
I cut two different lengths of .250" drill rod to use as the stop. I then reamed out the 1/4"-20 threaded portion for the drill rod to slide through. I lastly drilled and tapped a hole perpendicular to the drill rod for a 5/16"-24 set screw which requires a 5/32" allen wrench. Now all fasteners require the same 5/32" allen wrench to adjust the work stop.
Tapping the hole for the set screw.
Original long threaded set screw w/locknut vs. the short drill rod in the freshly reamed hole.
I also made a longer rod that can be inserted into the work stop.
All adjustments can be made with one size allen wrench.
Mike.
My work stop on my mill vise requires several different allen wrenches and a 7/16" wrench to adjust when using. This has bothered me although it isn't the end of the world. I wanted to modify it where it only required one size allen wrench to adjust. The end had a piece of 1/4"-20 threaded that required an 1/8" allen wrench and a 7/16" wrench to tighten/adjust. It then had a 5/32" allen to adjust the other two axis.
I cut two different lengths of .250" drill rod to use as the stop. I then reamed out the 1/4"-20 threaded portion for the drill rod to slide through. I lastly drilled and tapped a hole perpendicular to the drill rod for a 5/16"-24 set screw which requires a 5/32" allen wrench. Now all fasteners require the same 5/32" allen wrench to adjust the work stop.
Tapping the hole for the set screw.
Original long threaded set screw w/locknut vs. the short drill rod in the freshly reamed hole.
I also made a longer rod that can be inserted into the work stop.
All adjustments can be made with one size allen wrench.
Mike.
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 106
Did some more work on the fly cutter tonight. Spotted the mounting holes for the main body to the NMTB holder, then drilled countersunk and threaded them on the mill.
Time to fab up the tool holder out of the 4140 grade piece of .750 x 1.250.
Last thing I did tonight was cut the 1" x .752" slot using a 1/2" roughing end mill. Only the three clamping screw holes left to drill and tap. Continued tomorrow.
Time to fab up the tool holder out of the 4140 grade piece of .750 x 1.250.
Last thing I did tonight was cut the 1" x .752" slot using a 1/2" roughing end mill. Only the three clamping screw holes left to drill and tap. Continued tomorrow.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,308
couple of honey-dos
Fixed a clothes dryer that had snapped both legs
then made a couple of pivot blocks for a folding camping table
then it was onto the 1st step of adding a treadmill motor to my lathe - replacing the flywheel with a PC fan
Fixed a clothes dryer that had snapped both legs
then made a couple of pivot blocks for a folding camping table
then it was onto the 1st step of adding a treadmill motor to my lathe - replacing the flywheel with a PC fan
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 106
Finished the fly cutter today and made a couple of cuts on aluminum, first at 300 rpm and 7-1/2 ipm, then at 900 rpm and 3-1/2 ipm. Finish shines on both cuts but you can still see record tracks. I have to see if I can find some larger radius inserts in my drawers, that would cause the cuts to overlap more and eliminate the tracks. When running at 900 you can truly understand why this is called a FLY cutter as chips flew everywhere! I am exceptionally happy with this build and my new DRO. Parts were made to exact tolerances without any difficulty.
I then started a couple of other projects. Someone had welded this hook together but it was terribly crooked. I cut it in half, reground the edges, cut chamfers and tigged it back together straight. Backing plate and hook were sandblasted, hook top was drilled and tapped for a set screw to the center pin which had a flat machined on it. Seems like a lot of work for a one-off coat hook! It's sitting on a small roll-around stool for size.
Last project I started was a 6" harder than dried bear crap steel ball. This was a crusher ball from a glass factory. Had to cut a 90 degree "V" out of the ball. Started at the saw and somehow managed to get the two cuts to line up. Next step was a flat on the bottom. Regular end mill was useless. Looked like 4th of July with all the sparking before I could stop the mill. Switched to a carbide 1/2" end mill, taking .100" per pass. Decided to try my Mitsubishi face mill. Still .100", 200 rpm and 3-1/2 ipm. Still the original inserts Dylan. Beautiful curled chips!!!! Tan to light blue in colour.
Not finished yet. Continued Sunday. Gone fishing tomorrow!!!
I then started a couple of other projects. Someone had welded this hook together but it was terribly crooked. I cut it in half, reground the edges, cut chamfers and tigged it back together straight. Backing plate and hook were sandblasted, hook top was drilled and tapped for a set screw to the center pin which had a flat machined on it. Seems like a lot of work for a one-off coat hook! It's sitting on a small roll-around stool for size.
Last project I started was a 6" harder than dried bear crap steel ball. This was a crusher ball from a glass factory. Had to cut a 90 degree "V" out of the ball. Started at the saw and somehow managed to get the two cuts to line up. Next step was a flat on the bottom. Regular end mill was useless. Looked like 4th of July with all the sparking before I could stop the mill. Switched to a carbide 1/2" end mill, taking .100" per pass. Decided to try my Mitsubishi face mill. Still .100", 200 rpm and 3-1/2 ipm. Still the original inserts Dylan. Beautiful curled chips!!!! Tan to light blue in colour.
Not finished yet. Continued Sunday. Gone fishing tomorrow!!!
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2010
- Messages
- 306
Got a chance to work with the toys today. Finished the last wheel. These 14" wheels will fit most full size cars rear axle for demo derby. They are super thick Nissan Pathfinder wheels. Not for street. Built a set of 4 for a customer.
