Another 10" Logan Project + A Question

Quite different than mine. Probably worth it to find the right spanner for that, I would think. What serial number is your lathe?, I'm curious.
Nice looking paint job, by the way.
 
SN is 84016.

Thank you. The paint job has been way more work than expected. I don't want to completely derail your thread, but I will say that I will never use Alkyd Enamel again! Not the type of paint that I am familiar with.
 
Nogoingback said:
I bought the tool online from J.W. Winco, Inc. Description was an A54932 DIN 1810-40-42-B Hook Wrench.
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There are four common types (or two types each of which come in two types) of these special tools, pin spanners (wrenches) and hook spanners (wrenches). And each comes in either fixed (only fits one diameter of nut) and adjustable (fits a diameter range). In the US, the most common manufacturers are (or were before 2008) Williams (now belongs to SnapOn) and Armstrong. There are also a number of less common types, like face spanners, and etc.
 
RonRock said:
Thank you. I'll order one.

I "should" have and wish I would have had and used a spanner for the nut on the end of the Tailstock. I didn't have one so used a pin in the hole and tapped it with a hammer. Didn't take much to break it loose, but hogged out the hole in the process.

I haven't started disassembly of my Headstock or Center Carriage yet. Not sure what I will need. But I'd rather be prepared than faced with not having the right tool for the job.


Sorry about that last post. Getting used to the workings of this forum. Glad you took the time to look and reply.

Appreciate the help.
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Fixed it for ya.
 
I've never seen one, either. Not listed in a Jacobs catalog that I have. It only shows a 5JT.
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
Img_1921.jpg


I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
Img_7597_zpscb8b5dd7.jpg


Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544
 
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If you don't have adjustable spiral reamers for the ID, your turn the od tell you have a thumb press and than you green loctite on the od. This way the ID does not distort and you don't have to do any reaming.
 
Thanks for the suggestion Kernbigo. My only concern about turning the OD is that the replacement shaft is already .001 under the original. If I take off more, then my pulleys might be pretty
sloppy, even with green loctite. I don't have an adjustable reamer of the correct size, but I do know a local machinist that does little jobs like that for me cheaply. If I need to ream it, I'll probably
just have him do it. If I can use a boring bar, I'll do it on the Atlas. I think before I do anything
I'll press the pulley off the old shaft and see how it fits to the new one.
 
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