[How do I?] Anyone make their own undercoat spray wand tips?

solo

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I'm back in the rust belt with my rust free truck and I'd like to keep it that way. On my search, I found Surface Shield to work well for others.
NAPA has a sale til The end of December 5 gal for 285.00 A gun with wands will cost another 90.00
In trying to keep costs down I thought I might make my own 360 spray tip.
But how to get it to atomize ? Thoughts anyone?
 
The designs I've seen for cavity spray tips are very rudimentary. Very. Some of the sprays out there will spec a tip diameter on the can. Then either there is a single orifice hose end to poke through with, or one resembling a disc or cube with 5 holes at 90 deg angles from each other. A lot of reliance is put on the creeping action and excess application of cavity sprays.

Unless you are actually talking about undercoating, which is asphalt-based or 2k poly based. Those are either Schutz gun applications or HVLP, depending on the finish you are after. Those paint tips are cleanable. I'm pretty sure you are talking about cavity spray, though.
 
The designs I've seen for cavity spray tips are very rudimentary. Very. Some of the sprays out there will spec a tip diameter on the can. Then either there is a single orifice hose end to poke through with, or one resembling a disc or cube with 5 holes at 90 deg angles from each other. A lot of reliance is put on the creeping action and excess application of cavity sprays.

Unless you are actually talking about undercoating, which is asphalt-based or 2k poly based. Those are either Schutz gun applications or HVLP, depending on the finish you are after. Those paint tips are cleanable. I'm pretty sure you are talking about cavity spray, though.
Yes, cavity. I plan on spraying inside the doors, fenders, anywhere I see rust on most of the vehicles up here. The surface seal is lanolin based.
 
I know a guy that does under coating on the side, but he's 200 miles away. He heats the under coating up in a turkey fryer on low.
I may end up spending the money on a sprayer. The world has gotten expensive. I'm just looking to keep some money in my pocket.
 
The holes in this sprayer are ,030-.035 going from memory. Should get you there if you copied this one:

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Yep. I think this will work. It might atomize with enough psi behind it. I read pressures of 70-90 psi not heating it to thin it.
 
I’d say thats a “false economy”.

I can pick up the spray wand and multiple tips (flexible, angled, etc) at the local PA (like harbor freight) for around 20-30 bucks. Made specifically to do things like inside frame rails, doors, rockers, etc.
 
But how to get it to atomize ? Thoughts anyone?


We spray a bunch of that at work. Usually Woolwax, Fluid Film for the "full job", inside the doors, under the tail lights on cars, salting equipment, snow removal equipment, etc. Fluid film "creaps" real well for stuff you can't get to well, Woolwax sticks a little longer on the open bottom side. Splitting hairs probably. We've shot some Surface Shield, it hasn't been out (around here) long enough to tell any difference. They all spray the same. They don't "atomize". In fact, I don't think you'd want that. Even the nozzle doesn't atomize. The "purpose built" guns are just a siphon, air blows through a venturi, draws up the material, and the whole slobbery mess just comes out of the gun's nozzle in very coarse drops. (Relatively speaking of course). The "wands" are just quazi stiff open tubing, and the tips of said wands are just drilled holes. The mix, mostly air, and lanolin slobber just blows out of the holes as is. Like one giant hour long continuous uninterrupted sneeze. (About the same as the modified nozzles do). I know DIY has been done, and it's not rocket surgery, so by all means add up what you have and what you don't have, what mechanism and knowledge you have to modify any equipment you have or would get, and tally the dollars. It can be done, and (after you get the snot through the siphon), there is nothing complicated whatsoever. But a couple of our better guys went at it, couldn't build sometning for what it costs to buy a dedicated sprayer. Yeah, those ninety dollar sprayers feel like all of about two dollars in your hand, but if you throttle the air back to where it acts right, they get the job done pretty efficiently, and with minimal mess. FWIW, we have far better luck with those cheezy brass knurled handle ball valve type air line throttles than we do with regulating the air down to any recommended number. You'll know the spot, where it sprays real good and there's no overspray. It's not like dialing in paint, it's not that particular, you've got a good window, and there's not too much art to it.
 
I use a pressurized paint pot and an old conventional paint gun I modified. Attached a 4 inch length of 1/4 inch steel tubing to the nozzle of then and drilled it out to 1/4. Adjusting the paint pot pressure, usually about 20 psi determines the fluid rate and about 20 psi on the gun to blow it out.
Works great, did my nieces car in about 15 minutes. Used a Schutz gun before but you were steady filling the canister.
Manage to get about a gallon on my pickup frame, Ford so nob point spraying an aluminum body.

Greg
 
Thanks guys for all the responses. Thanks Jake M, for giving me insight on how this stuff sprays.
I have 45 + years in a machine shop and my own shop at home. I'll shift through my stash and see what I can come up with.
I'll probably end up buying a gun. Add up the time and resources, you usually come out better with a purchase.
My wife ribs every now and then, for buying my lathe because I didn't want to spend 7 bucks for a bushing.:rolleyes:
 
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