Bill M's Pm1340gt Setup

[maker of things]

Haha! I just use WD40, cleaning is just about all that it's good for in my book & is all I use it for. And it's cheap.

Will, I think you should do an instructional sticky titled: One simple trick for that "perfect Dark Zero clean" (tm) pending

 

[maker of things]

The big Japanese lathe I learned wasn't like this, in that you simply backed up past zero to eject the tool, but it's the only one outside of the ones I've owned that I have any experience with. I will either shorten the tang or the ejection bolt a bit. Depends on how ambitious I am at the time.

My tailstock has the through hole for a drift key and the tang fits nicely in so no spinning. The dead centers I got don't have a tang and are too short to be ejected by the screw which makes for many bad words when I have to use one. It's only short by .1"

I would vote for modifying the tangs to fit the lathe. Mamma always said tangs are like a box of chocolates, every one is different.

 

[darkzero]

Will, I think you should do an instructional sticky titled: One simple trick for that "perfect Dark Zero clean" (tm) pending

I should do informercials!

BAM!

 

[JimDawson]

WOW Will, I think that's the first time I've seen chips on your lathe. I didn't think you actually ever used it.

 

[darkzero]

WOW Will, I think that's the first time I've seen chips on your lathe. I didn't think you actually ever used it.

Haha! Well usually it sits inside a glass case & I take it to shows. And if it does get dirty, it needs to be cleaned before a photo shoot.

But in all seriousness, of course I use it. Most of the pics from my lathe thread were taken when it was new, copied over from it's original thread on another forum. And being white, all the scars & stuff are well hidden from camera, just like white cars. But I do clean up after jobs way more often than most. I've been getting lazier & lazier on clean up lately but I still try to keep it clean. I've seen plenty of guys here lately that could easily take over my title.

I machine mostly titanium so I try to keep it clear of ti chips as often as I can. Don't want to have anymore lathe fires. And I don't often have heavier turning days like the CI above (I hate CI) or like below. I guess I just end up taking photos more often after clean up.

 

[maker of things]

<Does't actually link anywhere>

But in all seriousness, thinking about how impressed everyone is by your clean machines helps motivate me to keep up on cleaning my machines after (almost) each job.

 

[wrmiller]

DAMN I hate electrical!

I THINK I have everything mounted/wired correctly. I'm flying a bit by the seat of my pants as I've decided to do things a bit differently that has been posted/suggested here. And while being familiar with the theory (electrical/electronics), there's no substitute for experience at something, of which I have none in this particular area.

Last thing I need to do prior to hitting the switch is to connect the braking resistor. I printed out a few pages from the manual describing how to view/modify/input parameters from the front panel. The Danfoss on the Charter Oak was intuitive/simple, this one not so much. Will take a bit of study to figure this one out.

I plan to leave the e-stop activated while I do a first power on just in case I have some of the control wiring going to the wrong places.

So...if I'm not back on this evening you can probably assume I turned myself into a burnt piece of charcoal or let the factory smoke out of something.

If I buy another machine someday, it will be a variable speed from the factory...

 

[coolidge]

My tailstock has the through hole for a drift key and the tang fits nicely in so no spinning. The dead centers I got don't have a tang and are too short to be ejected by the screw which makes for many bad words when I have to use one. It's only short by .1"

I would vote for modifying the tangs to fit the lathe. Mamma always said tangs are like a box of chocolates, every one is different.

Turn a spacer of the proper length and diameter, insert spacer, then dead center, then back out the quill to eject like the tang tools.

 

[coolidge]

I'm convinced DZ has two lathes, one is just for pictures.

 

[coolidge]

Interesting that you said that. Charter Oak has a motor drive kit for the Z axis, but I don't want to loose my ability to manually fine tune the position of the head which I was told their kit will do. But there has to be a way to have both. I'll have to think about this some more.

Do you like the fine speed tuning you have on your X axis power feed, plus rapid ability? For a truly manual mill I think something like that would be the way to go with Z.