Calling All Electronics Geniuses !

.....a couple more things;
  1. LEDs are strictly DC devices; ensure your supply is DC
  2. the series resistors values do not have to be exact; look at the tables for how much the resistor value changes the current- just try and get it close. You can use multiple resistors in series, just add their values together.
  3. LEDs care about polarity; if you hook it up backwards it will NOT light up! So if you think you have the proper resistor value and it's not lighting up, try turning around the LED; it won't harm it being backwards it just won't work!
  4. This is all pretty safe with fairly low voltages and low currents. You are more likely to get hurt by poking yourself with a screwdriver or a burn from a soldering iron....
-brino
 
brino said:
.....a couple more things;
  1. LEDs are strictly DC devices; ensure your supply is DC
  2. the series resistors values do not have to be exact; look at the tables for how much the resistor value changes the current- just try and get it close. You can use multiple resistors in series, just add their values together.
  3. LEDs care about polarity; if you hook it up backwards it will NOT light up! So if you think you have the proper resistor value and it's not lighting up, try turning around the LED; it won't harm it being backwards it just won't work!
  4. This is all pretty safe with fairly low voltages and low currents. You are more likely to get hurt by poking yourself with a screwdriver or a burn from a soldering iron....
-brino
Click to expand...
Thanks brino. I am going to give it a try. I appreciate all your help.
 
http://ledcalculator.net/ is what I use for quick calculations. (most regular red or green LEDs are typically 1.8-2.2 volt drop, you don't have to that precise with this either, as like brino said with the resistor value)

I was going to suggest you could look into 'panel indicators' because they are easy to mount, easy to wire, and have internal resistors, but 36V is sort of a uncommon industrial voltage so there isn't much available. (at least on Digikey where I looked)
 
Ulma Doctor said:
Hi Brooks, i'm not a genius either but a close up of the side of the switch explained a lot for me anyway,
the switch is a double pole double throw switch that is rated for 20 amps 125v volts.(16a @ 250v you're good no worries)
you can hook up a neutral on one pole and a hot lead on the other pole and isolate the output circuit from the input circuit.
for sake of argument the, most of the time you would utilize the center lugs for input,
in other words, you'd put a hot lead(usually black in AC power) on one center terminal and the white(neutral).
when you actuate the rocker in either direction, you'll switch the incoming power to output power , possibly on both legs.
it can be wired in to be used as a reversing switch with a little planning.
i'd be happy to help out, hit me up, i'll see if i can walk you through.
Click to expand...
In my opinion, one should not switch the neutral lead, unless, it is on a simple two prong plug in; the neutral should run right through, as in a household light switch; in most installations, neutral is bonded to ground.
 
benmychree said:
In my opinion, one should not switch the neutral lead, unless, it is on a simple two prong plug in; the neutral should run right through, as in a household light switch; in most installations, neutral is bonded to ground.
Click to expand...

Care to explain the logic of a preference for not switching both the Hot and Neutral?

Ken
 
benmychree said:
In my opinion, one should not switch the neutral lead, unless, it is on a simple two prong plug in; the neutral should run right through, as in a household light switch; in most installations, neutral is bonded to ground.
Click to expand...


BTW,
there are a few UL/CSA certified machines that i work on often, that switch both the hot and neutral legs.
 
I think you will find that it's a matter of economics. Almost all consumer electronics have SPST switches because it's cheaper than DPST...and is not a code or certification requirement. One of the key requirements of UL/CSA is that the user not have access to internal, line voltage circuitry. So you only need to disconnect the hot side to shut off power. The places I see DPST switches is in commercial equipment where there is possible operator access to internal circuitry or there is a non-neutral/ground feed like 220VAC in the USA. There it would be a code requirement.

Ken
 
KMoffett said:
I think you will find that it's a matter of economics. Almost all consumer electronics have SPST switches because it's cheaper than DPST...and is not a code or certification requirement. One of the key requirements of UL/CSA is that the user not have access to internal, line voltage circuitry. So you only need to disconnect the hot side to shut off power. The places I see DPST switches is in commercial equipment where there is possible operator access to internal circuitry or there is a non-neutral/ground feed like 220VAC in the USA. There it would be a code requirement.

Ken
Click to expand...
Since there is no voltage between neutral and ground there is no contact or fire hazard from it. Thus DPST switching a 120V device does not increase safety. On the other hand if you do it anyway there is the possibility that the line side of your DPST switch will fail closed while the neutral side continues to open (or the neutral side fails open while the line side continues to close). This could leave internal parts of the device hot when the device is not operating.
 
brino said:
.....a couple more things;
  1. LEDs are strictly DC devices; ensure your supply is DC
  2. the series resistors values do not have to be exact; look at the tables for how much the resistor value changes the current- just try and get it close. You can use multiple resistors in series, just add their values together.
  3. LEDs care about polarity; if you hook it up backwards it will NOT light up! So if you think you have the proper resistor value and it's not lighting up, try turning around the LED; it won't harm it being backwards it just won't work!
  4. This is all pretty safe with fairly low voltages and low currents. You are more likely to get hurt by poking yourself with a screwdriver or a burn from a soldering iron....
-brino
Click to expand...
Word upon that ... BUT stay away from larger components (anything over the size of a quarter) they do most of the work and have all the power. The led's are cheep and burn out quickly with wrong voltage. Use a VOM meter. And remember were not grading you on this.. so you can make a few mistakes before you ask again. I Like paste too ! Dawner
 
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