Can I Lock the Cross Slide or Compound?

JR,
Yes my own experience has shown improvement in cutting in certain conditions by snugging up the gib set screw. Its an old trick not invented by us newbies. The manufacturer of my lathe did provide the set screw adjustment. I'm glad its there and I use to advantage sometimes.
Good luck.
 
I also lock my lathe cross slide when broaching a keyway or gear, picture to show method, it would be better in the middle but then it sometimes interferes with the tailstock.

DSCF3929.JPG

I've also added an extra threaded hole for a locking screw to my shaper for the extra solidity, it prevents any chance of chatter.

DSCF3928.JPG

Bernard

DSCF3928.JPG DSCF3929.JPG
 
higgite said:
I fully understand the reason for a carriage lock, but not sure about cross slide or compound slide locks. Is the purpose of locking the cross slide just so that it doesn't oscillate, or "chatter", within its backlash? I can't imagine putting enough pressure on a cross slide or compound slide to actually turn their leadscrews.

Thanks,
Tom
Click to expand...

In my case usually always having had a tinny mill for many years I've had to be somewhat inventive with my lathe, I've done quit a bit of line boring and milling on my Myford, during boring operations where the cutter is revolving rather than the work the cross slide lock is quit useful to prevent the cross slide from being pushed back and forth to the outer extents of the backlash.

I've also had the pleasure of the tool being sucked in a little while cutting brass or softer materials when I've used a tool with to much back rake, so I'll use a little pressure on the lock during these situations, but this is purely user error/laziness (not changing the tool when I know I should).

I always use a little pressure on the cross slide lock when parting, I tend to get a little to agressive when parting and it saves some problems especially on the softer stuff.

For the most part properly adjusted gibs, proper tool selection and proper feeds and speeds should eliminate the need for locks on a cross slide or compound, but they are nice to have when needed.:))
 
This was my solution. I intend to put a linkage and a leaver on it to make it usable without a wrench, but it works great as is too.
CIMG2174.JPGThere is a washer between it and the cross slide. Thought I might need hardened washers but haven't done that and it may not be a good idea as the piece is not hardened and hard washers may just leave marks in it.

In case it's hard to tell in the pic. This attachment is on the front side of the cross slide and bolted into the holes where follow rest bolts on. I think the hole in the cross slide was already there. It's an old pic that was still in my attachments here.
The lathe is a Shop Fox M1112 12x36 gunsmith version.

CIMG2174.JPG
 
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I shimmed out the X scale on my cross slide to get access to the lock.

More pictures are posted here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=24468&p=216396&viewfull=1#post216396

Bob

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rgray said:
This was my solution. I intend to put a linkage and a leaver on it to make it usable without a wrench, but it works great as is too.
View attachment 83987There is a washer between it and the cross slide. Thought I might need hardened washers but haven't done that and it may not be a good idea as the piece is not hardened and hard washers may just leave marks in it.

In case it's hard to tell in the pic. This attachment is on the front side of the cross slide and bolted into the holes where follow rest bolts on. I think the hole in the cross slide was already there. It's an old pic that was still in my attachments here.
The lathe is a Shop Fox M1112 12x36 gunsmith version.
Click to expand...


That is a great idea to get it locked down when needed.

Part of keeping the movement in place is well adjusted gibs but also the type of leads crew. The Acme type of thread self lock to a good extent to keep things in place most of the time. If you were to put ball screws on a manual lathe you would be required to lock the axis every time because they would be easily unscrewed and out of place with some pressure.
 
rgray said:
This was my solution. I intend to put a linkage and a leaver on it to make it usable without a wrench, but it works great as is too.
View attachment 83987There is a washer between it and the cross slide. Thought I might need hardened washers but haven't done that and it may not be a good idea as the piece is not hardened and hard washers may just leave marks in it.

In case it's hard to tell in the pic. This attachment is on the front side of the cross slide and bolted into the holes where follow rest bolts on. I think the hole in the cross slide was already there. It's an old pic that was still in my attachments here.
The lathe is a Shop Fox M1112 12x36 gunsmith version.
Click to expand...
I have the Grizzly G4003G gunsmith lathe which I believe is very similar. The holes are there for the follower rest so I may steal your idea. Thanks.
 
epanzella said:
I have the Grizzly G4003G gunsmith lathe which I believe is very similar.
Click to expand...

Exactly the same I believe. Used to be different color ...then the grizzly change to the same color as the shop fox.
I've been real happy with the lock. Never did update to a leaver or linkage. I just leave a 1/2" wench on the carriage. It is nice to have the cross slide nut adjusted so there is no backlash and a little drag so the handle doesn't turn by itself, but the adjustment is a pain to do and doesn't seem to last very long. I often use this lock to just drag slightly so the cross slide doesn't move by its self. And when locked it is real solid.
I know there are advantages to a gib lock, but with a DRO scale off the back I didn't want to loose any more room back there.....when turning between centers it's alot of tailstock extension as is to get enough carriage travel to finish a cut without running the carriage into the tailstock.
 
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