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Clausing 5418 Lathe
- Thread starter Rick_B
- Start date
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- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
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Hi Rick,
There is a seller on eBay (Rickyrooster) selling a pair of of 5900-series half nuts for $145 + $12 s/h. Auction# is 171917506783. It has a couple of days to go. The 5300/5400 series manuals and 5900 series manuals both call out p/n Q-395 for the half nuts; these should work on your lathe.
Best regards, Bruce
There is a seller on eBay (Rickyrooster) selling a pair of of 5900-series half nuts for $145 + $12 s/h. Auction# is 171917506783. It has a couple of days to go. The 5300/5400 series manuals and 5900 series manuals both call out p/n Q-395 for the half nuts; these should work on your lathe.
Best regards, Bruce
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,606
I'd be VERY surprised if Clausing in the late 1950's/early 1960's was using anything metric on anything. You could have the seller lay a scale on the nuts to verify the tooth spacing on the half nuts. They'll likely come off auction with no bids, you might be able to get them at a better price if no one is interested.
Bruce
Bruce
I heard back from Clausing today - a Q395 and Q395 s are the same part. They have them in stock for $157 plus $15 max shipping. From what i can find out - a rebuild would be in the vicinity of $140 and the used ones on ebay for $157 shipped doesn't make sense.At his point I'm leaning towards the new set but I may take Bruce's suggestion and contact the ebay seller with an offer if they don't sell. I'm thinking, based on the new cost, of $75 for a used set.
Rick
Rick
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,511
I agree. On the "other" side of the house (Atlas), they didn't make a machine with an actual metric lead screw until 1975 (12") and 1977 (6").
Bruce - the keys arrived yesterday - perfect fit - thanks and I owe ya one.
David - window arrived yesterday - again thanks and I owe ya one too. do you happen to know if the line on the window goes on the top or bottom when installed?
All - I've been working on getting the under drive installed - this is the classic 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag scenario but its in. I think I understand most of the adjustments but I do have a few questions on the operation of the belt tensioning arrangement. Below are photos of the front and rear of this assembly. There is a "cam" type lever (rear photo) connected to the handle through a linkage rod.
First question - when the belt is fully tensioned the nose of the cam should be pointing vertical and locked on the lower side of the counter shaft frame - I think? Can anyone verify that?
Second question - the manual indicates that to change belt position on the pulleys the handle should be raised up. Is that correct and which direction - clockwise or counter clockwise. You can see in the photo below that when fully tensioned my handle is up and positioned against a drive pin stop.
finally - the manual indicates that to change belt tension you loosen the collars at the bottom of the support rods that hold two springs against the motor mount. To me it looks like the tensioning linking locks the motor plate and counter shaft frame together and there is no adjustment beyond that?
The whole mechnaism may be escaping me so if anyone can offer an explanation I would be appreciative. I'm betting I've got something backwards/wrong in the assembly.
Thanks
Rick
David - window arrived yesterday - again thanks and I owe ya one too. do you happen to know if the line on the window goes on the top or bottom when installed?
All - I've been working on getting the under drive installed - this is the classic 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag scenario but its in. I think I understand most of the adjustments but I do have a few questions on the operation of the belt tensioning arrangement. Below are photos of the front and rear of this assembly. There is a "cam" type lever (rear photo) connected to the handle through a linkage rod.
First question - when the belt is fully tensioned the nose of the cam should be pointing vertical and locked on the lower side of the counter shaft frame - I think? Can anyone verify that?
Second question - the manual indicates that to change belt position on the pulleys the handle should be raised up. Is that correct and which direction - clockwise or counter clockwise. You can see in the photo below that when fully tensioned my handle is up and positioned against a drive pin stop.
finally - the manual indicates that to change belt tension you loosen the collars at the bottom of the support rods that hold two springs against the motor mount. To me it looks like the tensioning linking locks the motor plate and counter shaft frame together and there is no adjustment beyond that?
The whole mechnaism may be escaping me so if anyone can offer an explanation I would be appreciative. I'm betting I've got something backwards/wrong in the assembly.
Thanks
Rick
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,606
Hi Rick,
Glad the keys made it to you OK and will work.
Unfortunately, my underneath drive is on page 34 of the manual, yours is on page 31. Mine has a lever that sticks out of the RH side of the base. Tight is away from the operator, loose is toward the operator. My lever cams the motor base up so the belt can be moved.
You'd think your set up would be similar; use the weight of the motor to hold belt tension.
Looks like from the parts page you'd start by pulling down on counter shaft bracket 041-111 to get proper tension between the spindle and counter shaft pulley 560-025. Seems like cam O-244 would end up as you noted in question 1 for full tension on the drive belt. It looks to me from the parts drawing that the end of the lever O-281 is facing away from the cone pullies instead of toward them as in your pictures. If you flip it 180 degrees that should take care of the interference to the pin in the upper counter shaft bracket. It shouldn't matter which way you throw the lever as long as you have clearance to other stuff. Looks like the holes in arm O-244 and motor base 050-026 are right on top of each other so either direction would give you the same travel.
I'm guessing here, but I think the two collars (DL-259) are adjusted up to load up the two compression springs (O-276) to help lift the motor for belt changes. Otherwise you'd be lifting the full weight of the motor with the cam lever, the springs on the bottom give a little boost from the bottom end. I'd set it up by throwing the lever to tighten the belt, then adjust the collars up until the motor/motor bracket starts to lift. Might be easier to get the position by first lifting the motor with the cam lever, move the collars, then drop the motor and see what you get. Go too far and the cam lever will start getting hard to throw since you'd be over-compressing the springs. Just my best guess looking at your photos/parts drawings.
Best regards, Bruce
Glad the keys made it to you OK and will work.
Unfortunately, my underneath drive is on page 34 of the manual, yours is on page 31. Mine has a lever that sticks out of the RH side of the base. Tight is away from the operator, loose is toward the operator. My lever cams the motor base up so the belt can be moved.
You'd think your set up would be similar; use the weight of the motor to hold belt tension.
Looks like from the parts page you'd start by pulling down on counter shaft bracket 041-111 to get proper tension between the spindle and counter shaft pulley 560-025. Seems like cam O-244 would end up as you noted in question 1 for full tension on the drive belt. It looks to me from the parts drawing that the end of the lever O-281 is facing away from the cone pullies instead of toward them as in your pictures. If you flip it 180 degrees that should take care of the interference to the pin in the upper counter shaft bracket. It shouldn't matter which way you throw the lever as long as you have clearance to other stuff. Looks like the holes in arm O-244 and motor base 050-026 are right on top of each other so either direction would give you the same travel.
I'm guessing here, but I think the two collars (DL-259) are adjusted up to load up the two compression springs (O-276) to help lift the motor for belt changes. Otherwise you'd be lifting the full weight of the motor with the cam lever, the springs on the bottom give a little boost from the bottom end. I'd set it up by throwing the lever to tighten the belt, then adjust the collars up until the motor/motor bracket starts to lift. Might be easier to get the position by first lifting the motor with the cam lever, move the collars, then drop the motor and see what you get. Go too far and the cam lever will start getting hard to throw since you'd be over-compressing the springs. Just my best guess looking at your photos/parts drawings.
Best regards, Bruce
Thabks Bruce - a umber of your thoughts were things that crossed my mind while staring at the assembly this morning. I'm going to try some of them this afternoon. I'm still not sure what the drive pin is for - in my picture above it is on the handle side but after looking at the parts diagram it appears it should be on the cam side so I changed that but right now it isn't actually contacting anything. I'm thinking it has to be a stop for something like over travel. The same concept was usd on the tail stock. I'll update as I try some things. One thing I did discover is that new belt is 3" too long - Clausing toldme it should be a 44" belt and when I got it tht's what I told the guy. I looked at it quickly when I bught it and saw it was marked B44. I looked a little closer today and discovered it is actually a 5L470 (47" long). A bit of internet looking indicates a B44 is actually 47" long. I'm going back to the original belt (44-3/4" long - I'm assuming stretch) for any further adjustment/testing)
Rick
Rick
I tried a few things and it seems like everything is working as expected. The main key was Bruce's comment about the handle positioning - I had not seen that before - lifting up the handle to the operator's left resulted in removing belt tension and dropping it applied tension. The other thing metioned by Bruce was that the belt tension is maintained by the weight of the motor - I was thinking the cam would lock the tension but it really is locking the de-tensioning. Finally the drive pin does function as a limiter to over travel when the handle is raised for de-tensioning.
The only problem - actually more of an inconvenience - is that by raising the handle to the operator's left the handle goes behind the cabinet front so you have to weazle your hand between the cabinet and handle to pull it down. The only fix I see to that is to move the entire under drive frame to the right on the upper pivot bar. There are two sets of tapped holes for the mounting feet that are two inchs apart (which s probably enough to solve the handle problem) but I think I won't be able to line up the countershaft to spindle pulleys. The 3 belt counter shaft pulley has a shoulder that limits its travel to the left. I need to look at that a little more. Unfortuntely the manual isn't offering any help in this area.
Rick
The only problem - actually more of an inconvenience - is that by raising the handle to the operator's left the handle goes behind the cabinet front so you have to weazle your hand between the cabinet and handle to pull it down. The only fix I see to that is to move the entire under drive frame to the right on the upper pivot bar. There are two sets of tapped holes for the mounting feet that are two inchs apart (which s probably enough to solve the handle problem) but I think I won't be able to line up the countershaft to spindle pulleys. The 3 belt counter shaft pulley has a shoulder that limits its travel to the left. I need to look at that a little more. Unfortuntely the manual isn't offering any help in this area.
Rick