I found that in fact the table was too high even after trying to keep it low it just wouldn't work. With the barrel tipped up 20 degrees the end of a long end mill was well above the grinder center line. So I raised the grinder 1 1/2" with a 2 X 12 block. (can't lower the table so raise the grinder)
I cut about 6" off the tower that wasn't needed and lagged it all to the work bench. The bench was made about 10 years ago for the wife as she wanted somewhere to do her own thing. Well that lasted about a month until she had her own 12X24 workshop delivered. (if mama isn't happy then nobody is happy)
So this work bench was mainly for the grinder.
Time to make the indexer pin that follows the end mill spiral.
This is what I started with.
And here it is installed and after making a couple of passes.
First one with flutes sharpened.
Tried another mill with the before and after pictures.
All of these end mills had been sharpened professionally several times before and were past their minimum size specifications so I got them really cheap.
I then grabbed a 3/8" 4 flute end mill and tried to sharpen it. I noticed that when I started to grind a flute the end was not touching the wheel but at the shank end it was cutting quite deeply. I continued on until I knew there was something wrong. I had made a tapered end mill. The barrel lock was not holding and the barrel had tipped down about 10 degrees which brought the cutting end closer to the wheel and so it cut deeper or in a taper.
Now to stop and fix some of the problems I have found.
#Barrel Lock
#Move the table 2" closer to the grinder
#Make a lock for each of the X and Y axis (they don't stay where you put them)
#The index pin shaft needs to be longer
Probably 10 other things I haven't found yet.
Question I have the center line of the end mill set about 1/2" above the center line of the wheel. Is this about right for sharpening the flutes?
Thanks for looking
Ray