Enterprise 1550 lathe restore

JMan23 said:
Would it be a good idea to shim between the cross slide and the gib to make a few thousandths?
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In a word - No. A shim should always be placed on the opposite side from the cross slide. . A shim is flat and polished: it cannot hold any oil at all. -- It will even help squeeze oil that is there, and now your cross slide will wear much faster. much faster. You might have to clean up the gibb and bond the shim to the gibb with an epoxy or cyanoacrylate.
 
Dabbler said:
In a word - No. A shim should always be placed on the opposite side from the cross slide. . A shim is flat and polished: it cannot hold any oil at all. -- It will even help squeeze oil that is there, and now your cross slide will wear much faster. much faster. You might have to clean up the gibb and bond the shim to the gibb with an epoxy or cyanoacrylate.
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I took his question as shimming the stationary side of the gib. If he meant the moving side you are correct for sure. Gluing it would work. I just folded the edges around the end of the gib when I did it to my tapered gib.
 
Yes dabbler, your illustration shows where I meant for the shim to go
 
Dabbler said:
Not sure what you mean.... Words are hard. How about this?

View attachment 468250
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Yes exactly. I was saying that instead of gluing you could bend over tabs at the ends to hold it. When I did the ones on my mill they were really long and I chose not to glue as I was afraid I might create high spots with puddled glue. Would be much easier to position on a smaller gib.
 
I got the cross slide shimmed and snug now. I haven't bored anything since to check if it would hold setting better.
No luck on getting the chuck out yet. The cams have refused to budge. Using my big milwaukee Impact on low and the new 10mm Sq drive bit that fit perfectly. I'm turning counter clockwise. The marks are hard to see on the plate. I can see a v and a straight line. Would it be a terrible idea to get a 6" 4jaw chuck, make a backplate with a shaft the chucks up in the 3 jaw and run that? Lol. The 3 jaw has 4 thou runout. But I need to turn things that already have the od machined and I need to bore the ID centered to that.
What is the other smaller bolt on the ring where the cams are? Does that mount come off the spindle? Can I get a different chuck mount to fit my spindle?
I got a chunk of iron to hold that huge bb I got on ebay. I shaved a 1" bolt head to fit the T slot, I'll need to weld a bit on 2 sides the bolt head to hold the bolt from spinning in the T slot. I wish the bar was longer to catch both hold down bolts in the toolSpindle? (That's how far it needs to stick out to bore atc cylinders) What do you think, think it will move on me with the 1 bolt? The bar does have a flat machined on the side that sits on the inside of the holder.
 

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Did you soak it in Kroil? You can also use a heat gun or a pencil torch to try and break it loose.
 
Kinda roundabout way to go but yes, you could chuck up one chuck in another chuck using a backplate/shaft arrangement
Watch out for woodchucks they're bound to come out of the woodwork LOL
 
that smaller bolt on your spindle is what I think holds in the cams. Try and unscrew it, then if you can get it out, spray penetrating fluid (kroil, PB blaster, whatever) down there. Then heat gun, then spray, then heat gun, then spray. You can also get something called Freeze Off, which also works well, contains a penetrating fluid too. After copious soaking for a while my usual approach is to heat/cool/heat/cool/use impact/ heat/ cool and so on. Heating and cooling sucks the penetrating fluid further in and also helps break down any rust or gunge.
 
Haha, yeah watch out for those woodchucks. I would rather get it off than chuck another chuck in that chuck. I don't have Kroil, I have some other stuff that worked well on other things. I haven't tried heat yet, guess that'll be the next step and I'll try an get those other bolts out to spray in there. Thanks guys
 
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