How to Disassemble Starrett Dial Indicator

Cleaning and oiling a dial indicator is just like working on a pocket watch. The Horology world puts oil on jeweled pivots. And basically every metal to metal contact except for the gear teeth. Nothing wrong with soaking the guts in solvent. Better make sure you have the dial off and any other stuff that could get damaged in the solvent. Then rinse in maybe alcohol. Don’t use shop air on it, you could destroy the hair spring. The oil with a good grade of oil.

About instrument oils. The older stuff can dry out and get gummy/hard or even evaporate. The newer are mostly synthetic oils and should not have any of the decades ago problems. Just use sparingly. A little oil goes a long way.
 
Cleaning and oiling a dial indicator is just like working on a pocket watch. The Horology world puts oil on jeweled pivots. And basically every metal to metal contact except for the gear teeth. Nothing wrong with soaking the guts in solvent. Better make sure you have the dial off and any other stuff that could get damaged in the solvent. Then rinse in maybe alcohol. Don’t use shop air on it, you could destroy the hair spring. The oil with a good grade of oil.

About instrument oils. The older stuff can dry out and get gummy/hard or even evaporate. The newer are mostly synthetic oils and should not have any of the decades ago problems. Just use sparingly. A little oil goes a long way.
I bow to you, Chips, you know more about this stuff than I do...
 
Yes, the stem is hard polished steel. And the outer housing it rides in is typically brass. I do not like metal to metal contact without protection. In my Hobby Shop I will put a film of oil on my dial indicator stems.

There is a repair company back east that now pounds the drum about no oil on the stem. I believe they do not oil because they had problems with Bozo customers that allowed crap to collect on the oiled stems, causing come-backs. That rational to me is a repair company would rather have the indicator wear out the stem long after the warranty. Rather than have it sent as a come-back.
 
Don’t go down too far when you bow. You know at our age, it’s easy going down, and really hard going back up…LOL.
Heck, I've seen Bob's cameos in the scraping videos on Youtube, he's appears pretty agile in those. - just sayin' :grin:
 
Greetings!
First post.......! Would have done this earlier, but technical difficulties wouldn't let me on board! Web Dude fixed me up thankfully!

I found this post when trying to take my Starrett #25-631 apart to replace the crystal assy.

First: I could not find a plastic crystal by itself to replace. Gone are the days of a $3 replacement! :) Now it is an $8 piece that is a crystal and the surrounding black piece. Plastic, not metal. Your best bet is to go directly to Starrett dot com and purchase pieces there. I used a dealer and the transaction got all balled up with a higher price than stated, and a $22 shipping amount or some BS like that. Floored me! Good news that Starrett resolved it all and credited me back my entire shipping amount! As the guy said..... "we're an old company and slow to change!"

Second: In this post, guys have mentioned the "how to release the front face plate ring. Indeed there are three "high pressure areas" on a spring that encompasses the entire gauge face. Using a small pin, like a paper clip, one can depress this spring while applying upwards pressure on the ring. Here are the coordinate of the spring as I found it. (It is locked in place by a 90 degree bend in one end that is retained in the gauge itself.

These three points are oriented in a triangular shape, not equilateral. Two points on the bottom......and one at the top. You will want to try and release the top point and move the ring in the direction of the lower two points..... It can be a bit fiddly.....
Here are the point coordinates, using the dial as reference with the dial gauge oriented with zero at top and 25 at the 6:00 position at the bottom:
Top point is at the .002 mark Bottom two points are at .0105 and .031" There is probably a little lee way here but I believe that I marked my gauge case with the center point of each high spot on the spring!

Three: If you get a new crystal with the new plastic outer ring (held in place by three tabs as seen from rear of gauge when ring is snapped in place....more obvious when you have new ring in hand!!!) OK new plastic ring does NOT use the old spring. Remove spring and place with your old metal ring for good keeping in the junk drawer of your tool box......! :))))

Once you place the gauge dial in carefully under the main indicator needle, you can then snap the new crystal and retaining ring into position. Three tabs will snap into the recess around the gauge body. Test movement of the indicator ring and the faceplate and go from there!!!

Was glad to get this little gauge back in operational form! Used it already to check out face runout and bore runout on a new bellhousing for a transmission swap my son is working on! My old gauge was only good to .001 so having this new (to me!) gauge with a .0005" readout was great!

Hope this helps someone out! Your mileage may vary, but this is what I found with my #25-631 model which there are a LOT of out there in tool boxes across the planet!

(Thought I had pictures, but they're on my son's iCamera!)

Cheers!
Steve
Hollister CA
 
@Winegrower M&R and Long island have your crystal in stock 90%.... Thye need you to mail in yours or an accurate OD. new crystals are very cheap, no matter the size or source.
 
Just found this post. For cleaning nothing beats denatured alcohol. NO oil. They are made to run dry. Removing a bezel requires careful observation of each make's construction. For some if you pull the back off first you'll find two "hairsprings" 180 degrees from each other. Collapse those and carefully remove the bezel/crystal. Pull the needles and remove the graduated face (alcohol will destroy it). At this point I would soak it in a container of denatured alcohol. That will usually remove any alcohol.
Re-assembly is simple.

I did nothing but gauge repair and calibration for 30 years. All this got to be a standard practice every day as between flooding with coolant and the human urge to "lubricate" moving parts was pretty much unavoidable.
 
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