[Shaper] Little problem with shaper table

Ron,

I'm not surprised to see a shoulder and pin on the lower end of the inner shaft. There was likely a collar on there at one time that was at some point ripped off. That means the piece on the upper end of the same shaft is actually a nut. I suspect that nut was pinned to the outer shaft and was also ripped off by whatever catastrophic event got the lower collar.

Tom

I hadn't even considered that top collar to also be a nut! :worship: I'll be checking that out tomorrow for sure.


I think the fix is really simple. Drill and tap a new hole 180 from the damage hole top and bottom put it back together.

If Tom is correct on that piece being the top nut, then that means all the pieces are there. You're right then that I could just drill it and it would be functional but I'd still like to consider replacement as that piece is pretty beat up. Am I going to be cranking on it and all of a sudden it tears itself apart? I mean, that would really crab my day. ;) :biggrin:

I'll let you guys know what I find tomorrow.

-Ron
 
Reread post #34 with the new findings and see if it makes more sense now. Sorry I didn't explain my self very well.

The bottom damage will be below the bottom nut and as long as you don't abuse it you won't break it the top can be cut off just below the damage and redrill and tap. Then make a collar and sleeve to put under the bottom nut to raise the table the amout you cut off the top of the outer sleeve. This will allow the table to come full height and only take a little travel off the bottom. You seldom use the table completly at the bottom anyway
 
Reread post #34 with the new findings and see if it makes more sense now. Sorry I didn't explain my self very well.

The bottom damage will be below the bottom nut and as long as you don't abuse it you won't break it the top can be cut off just below the damage and redrill and tap. Then make a collar and sleeve to put under the bottom nut to raise the table the amout you cut off the top of the outer sleeve. This will allow the table to come full height and only take a little travel off the bottom. You seldom use the table completly at the bottom anyway

I get what you are saying. Your right though, I don't think I was reading that post properly the first time. :eek:

As far as "fixing", the method you suggest would work but I'm not sure just how well, as there are a couple of issues that bug me with it. (Not your fault as a guy can only do so much on something like this "long distance" without seeing first hand some of the details that can make or break a plan.) If one were to cut off the top part of the sleeve it becomes comparatively very "fragile". Look at the detail drawing I did of the whole setup. You'll notice that the "sleeve" wall is considerably thicker near either end. If one were to cut the sleeve down past the damage 3/4 of the thicker section would be gone. There would be much less area for the top "nut" to engage let alone try to pin it. The thinner sections of the sleeve wall are really, really thin in places (.02" at the bottom of the threads maybe). There is actually one spot where I can see daylight through it. I think it's a bit past it's warranty though. :)

Assuming one could safely cut the sleeve making something to raise the base nut wouldn't be too big of deal. I don't really like losing any of the downward travel though. Granted, I have never run a shaper but with the setup I have in mind I would think it would be better to lose some of the upward travel of the table. The reason I'm thinking this is that my vise takes up about five inches of travel itself leaving maybe eight or nine inches. Not much to really work with. If a person were to lose the upward movement I would think that making a rise, spacers, etc. to raise the workpiece a couple inches would be doable. *Mostly the real problem with this one is simpy me. It kind of bugs me to have a tool that isn't working to it's full capacity. I call it OCD, my wife has another, "more colorful", expression for it. :rolleyes: :biggrin: I'm my own worst enemy sometimes.

Thanks,

-Ron
 
Just wondering what is holding the table/crossslide up without the screw in it. Can't see anything in the pics.

If I were going to make a new sleeve I would use some thick wall cold rolled tubing. I don't think you need to worry about thinning the wall thickness inside as long as you have clearence for the inside screw. What is the OD?
 
I'll grab some measurements on the way out of the office (at my desk right now) on my way home. Should have thought to get that earlier so I can see what's available. CR? That should be doable and not horribly expensive I wouldn't think.

What is holding up the cross-slide? Good question. It has loosened up so much that it now moves under it's own weight so I place a section of 2x4" lumber under it. You can see it in the far right of this photo which also shows that the top "flange" is in reality the top "nut". Glorious day! It all makes sense now.


It was wedged up under the horizontal slide solidly enough that I didn't realize it was a separate piece. It's a very snug fit but it does fit all the way into the top of the sleeve.


Occam's razor!

Here is what I was talking about with the sleeve being somewhat fragile:

Most likely just a flaw in the casting but it's around the mid-point of the sleeve.

-Ron
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ron,

The additional pictures you posted make it all clear. There was no collar on the lower end of the inner shaft. What stops it's rotation as it is being raised is the pin coming in contact with that notch in the upper nut that we all thought was damage. All of the parts are definitely there, you just need to re-pin the upper nut to the outer screw and It'll be good to go.

Tom
 
Amazing how all of a sudden things "come together" and the little light bulb comes on (finally ;)). Turns out I was way over thinking this. I think it was one of Tony's posts saying that the top fitting could actually be a "nut" where there started to be a glimmer of light. All of a sudden it goes from a complex engineering problem to a basically simple fix. I'm a very happy camper today.

I want to thank all you guys for helping me think this through. Now comes the fun part - going about fixing it. I get the feeling I'm going to be learning lessons in cutting acme threads. I could do a "bandaid" type fix of the sleeve and get the shaper functional again but I'm not real confident in it's longevity.

I did get a couple measurements from the sleeve. The inner diameter (that contacts the top "nut") is 1 5/8" while the thread's outside diameter is just under 2 3/8". Peacock suggested cold-rolled but I think I'll have to narrow that down a bit as to which alloys would be appropriate for this task. I'm still a rank beginner in learning about the different types of steel, their uses, and their machine-ability. Both http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9584&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197 (Online Metals) and http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3512-8242-2-12-od-x-500-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx (Speedy Metals) list a DOM tubing. Online Metals calls it A513 Mild Steel Tube Type 5 whereas Speedy Metals lists it as DOM Steel Tube. Is that what I should be looking at or is there something else more appropriate?

-Ron
 
My choice would be a piece of 4140/42/45 which is Q&T to around 36-38 Rc. Many folks use the term Cold Roll(ed) to signify a type of metal, when in reality it is part of the manufacturing process. Usually it is found in the lower carbon content steels, like AISI 1018 or 1020. My opinion is they are not suitable for your part. Not that they just plain wouldn't work, just not the best choice.

To finish the OD at 2.375, I would buy 2.500. And being as my preference is 41XX....tubing is harder to find. I have some P80 that might work for you, and save you from drilling a solid. I'll look in the AM. I can't remember the ID.
 
4140 would make a great screw but it is much more expensive than this calls for. cold rolled does refer to the finial rolling process and true it can be any of several alloys. In all most every case it machines very well. I think 1020 would do just fine it is replacing a piece of cast iron. I stock several sizes of thick wall tubing I buy in 20 ft lengths. My supplier calls it stress proof. Machines very well not too expensive and it's pretty tough. This is a low stress app. low speed, low load, and for the most part limited use, Hand powered. If I wanted a shaper to use I would repin it and go on. If I wanted to restore it as close to original as possible I would have a blank cast and machine. This was boken but some serious abuse. You will never treat your shaper that way. Lock the gibbs before you start the ram unlock before you raise or lower the table and you won't have a problem.
 
My choice would be a piece of 4140/42/45 which is Q&T to around 36-38 Rc. Many folks use the term Cold Roll(ed) to signify a type of metal, when in reality it is part of the manufacturing process. Usually it is found in the lower carbon content steels, like AISI 1018 or 1020. My opinion is they are not suitable for your part. Not that they just plain wouldn't work, just not the best choice.

To finish the OD at 2.375, I would buy 2.500. And being as my preference is 41XX....tubing is harder to find. I have some P80 that might work for you, and save you from drilling a solid. I'll look in the AM. I can't remember the ID.

I was figuring on the 2.5" outer diameter. That'll produce more than enough in the way of chips. I first looked at the tubing with 1.5" inner diameter for the same reason but as you say, the choices are pretty limited for "tube". If you do happen across something (you lost me with "P80", I was good at 4140, 36-38 Rc., 1018 and 1020 but that was my limit) please let me know but don't go out of your way for it. I'm in no hurry. I've many other projects that need to be worked on as well.

4140 would make a great screw but it is much more expensive than this calls for. cold rolled does refer to the finial rolling process and true it can be any of several alloys. In all most every case it machines very well. I think 1020 would do just fine it is replacing a piece of cast iron. I stock several sizes of thick wall tubing I buy in 20 ft lengths. My supplier calls it stress proof. Machines very well not too expensive and it's pretty tough. This is a low stress app. low speed, low load, and for the most part limited use, Hand powered. If I wanted a shaper to use I would repin it and go on. If I wanted to restore it as close to original as possible I would have a blank cast and machine. This was boken but some serious abuse. You will never treat your shaper that way. Lock the gibbs before you start the ram unlock before you raise or lower the table and you won't have a problem.

As I'm mostly bereft of metallurgical knowledge I had to ask about alloys. Even though I understood what "cold rolled" means I still didn't know what metals were generally used in that process. That was even part of my consternation with the online metal places listing something as DOM "steel". I know what DOM is but a novice like me has no idea what group of alloys, if any, are generally used. When talking to me about metals you need to pretend your talking to a complete idiot (or at least say you're pretending :eek:). While I've got you here (I'll try not to get drool on anyone) would you mind if I "pick your brain" a bit? I've seen the term "stress proof" from time to time when I'm looking at metal suppliers but what does that really mean? Another thing you mentioned has me wondering as well, "low stress app. low speed, low load". The "low speed" part is pretty obvious but how does one define "low stress". "Low load" is also a bit of a puzzle. How low is "low" and conversely what would be "regular" and "high"?

As far as the shaper table goes, the table is a little over 300 lbs, the vise that sits on it another 200 lbs or so, the horizontal slide I'm going to guess another 500 lbs so before I even put a work piece on it the screw is supporting a half a ton. I could easily see myself putting another 300 lbs or so in a work piece. Now we add the constant pounding and vibrations from the shaper/cutting and the constant raising and lowering of the table. I would think a guy needs to have a steel that is hard enough to resist wear but not so hard as to become brittle. What ultimately fits that description, I have to bow to you guys that work with the stuff all the time.

Now, anyone know if they ever published a book, "Metallurgy for Dummies"? :biggrin:

Thank again guys,

-Ron
 
Back
Top