Machining steel round outside diameter on vertical mill

LOL!!!


Jim, if you do this properly you could work the mandrel into a nice slitting saw arbor so its not a one time use part.

Im always looking to find a secondary use for something that needs to be made as a one off tool.
Well, alrighty then. Sounds like a good challenge. Thanks, RBW...
 
Nice knurler mod!

The power / argon cable that came with my machine is only 10 feet long. Is there an adapter I can get to connect a second cable to make it 20 feet? If so, where can I find on, and what is it called? Thanks, JR49

For any threading job that requires the cutting tool be in close proximity to the chuck, I use the method of threading away from the chuck. Takes all of the stress out of the job.

Ted

Welcome aboard Robert

The crank arm as promised.
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The two previous pictures tell the whole story even with a 1/2" deep relief slot there is no way a 3" stroke into a 0.875 hole is going to work. There just isn't enough room if I want to stay within my overall length of 15".
I could shorten the stroke but that means the compression ratio will go way down and I don't want that. I think what I will do is make
the cylinder larger with a 1" piston if I can make room in the 3/4" tee. This won't guarantee that there won't be any interference problems but they will be much less.

Thanks for looking
Ray

It's a good idea to grind the cutting edges of the drill to reduce the rake similar to what's done for brass drilling
Peck drilling is important- clear the chips often

Yes, after a lot of turning with the back gear engaged. Thinking it has gauled the shaft a bit. I can turn it in reverse with a large bar but very stiff.

If you're just beginning I think you'd get a lot more return for your money spending it on other things. I don't even have one of those little magnetic digital angle things and I've got by just fine without a precision level. Not saying I wouldn't buy one if I found one cheap you know, I'm not crazy!

You could make an arbor to hold the bored disc in your spindle and use a single-point tool in the vise to true the OD.

Edit: probably more properly called a mandrel, as it holds the work rather than the cutter.
 
Please delete my reply above don’t even know how that got there. jwmelvin, or anyone, How would he make an arbor/mandrel without a lathe?
 
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Please delete my reply above don’t even know how that got there. jwmelvin, or anyone, How would he make an arbor/mandrel without a lathe?
Same way, stick it in a holder in the quill and cut it true. Use tap or die to fix the part to the mandrel.
 
How would he make an arbor/mandrel without a lathe?
Mount a piece of round in a collet. Using the vice to hold a piece of HSS, turn the rod to slightly oversized, .002+. Take a file and taper the end of the about to become arbor. Remove the new arbor and drive the taper into the washer hole. Put arbor back into collet & turn OD. One thing to check is the actual diameter of the hole. If it was drilled it may be larger than the drill size.
 
My first machine tool was a Jet knee mill I traded for. It didn't take long until it was obvious a lathe was the 2nd part of a set.
And then the rabbit hole got out of control.
 
My first machine tool was a Jet knee mill I traded for. It didn't take long until it was obvious a lathe was the 2nd part of a set.
And then the rabbit hole got out of control.
I'm sensing the same, Larry....down the rabbit hole I go....

But I do see now that the vise translates to a lathe tool post, the milling table can be thought of as the lathe's cross slide and the mill's z-axis functions the same as the lathe's carriage moving along the bed. While there seem to be ways to turn and face on a mill, a lathe would make it so much easier. It's good to hear from everyone to see how creative they can get when these various challenges come up!
 
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