Machining steel round outside diameter on vertical mill

[Liljoebrshooter]

Its not only when you don't have a lathe. It's also when you have a part that's to big to fit in it.
Like a big casting that is 30" long and is 300 lbs. Sometimes you have to get creative with the setup.
Joe

 

[Larry$]

I'm sensing the same, Larry....down the rabbit hole I go....

I enjoyed machining, not to make anything useful. That sometimes happened but it wasn't the goal. I kept trying new things, methods, ideas, just to see if I could. Making tools was rewarding also. There are a lot of very good machining related websites. Joe Pie's site is really designed to be educational. Excellent presentations. I bought a new copy of Machinery Handbook. 2500 pages of information about all aspects of machining. I got the full size version and the print is still fairly small for an old man. Have fun, be safe. Larry

 

[JimFromAZ]

I enjoyed machining, not to make anything useful. That sometimes happened but it wasn't the goal. I kept trying new things, methods, ideas, just to see if I could. Making tools was rewarding also. There are a lot of very good machining related websites. Joe Pie's site is really designed to be educational. Excellent presentations. I bought a new copy of Machinery Handbook. 2500 pages of information about all aspects of machining. I got the full size version and the print is still fairly small for an old man. Have fun, be safe. Larry

Thanks for the Joe Pie site. I have the 31st edition of Machinery Handbook on my workbench, but it's the 5" x 7" edition. didn't know about the full size version. Thank goodness for eyeglasses and magnifying glasses! Jim.

 

[Parlo]

Instead of a mandrel use a bolt ( or studding ) & nut through the hole. Do them all in one go with the tool tip outside the vice to give clearance.

 

[tq60]

What is the size of the grinder shart?

If less than 3/4 inch, then locate a collet of that size.

Get a good quality bolt of the same size, inches long, so you have a good, not threaded length.


Fine thread.

A few close fit washers, if these can not be found, get the next smaller size and drill to size, and nut to fit.


A couple extra nuts.

A couple brazed carbide bits.

Cut off the head of the bolt.

Center mark your disks.

Drill to just fit the bolt, confirm it fits grinder.

Also, some grinders may have a threaded backer on the motor side of the wheel. If so, you can thread your disk. The bolt must have the same thread.

Insert bolt in collet with threads sticking out lonk enough for a washer and nut.

Place bit in side of vise and make the nuts small diameter, reason will be clear in a bit.

Now reset bolt, so not threaded part is out of the collet.

Place a washer first, then one skinny nut, then disk followed by last skinny nut.

You now can turn flat BOTH sides of the disk as well as turn the diameter.

You can face the disk all the way to where the skinny nut is located.

Your vise is the tool holder.

If you place the cutter in the vise just right with the top at an angle, you can use steps to make a tapered face on the disk.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[JimFromAZ]

What is the size of the grinder shart?

If less than 3/4 inch, then locate a collet of that size.

Get a good quality bolt of the same size, inches long, so you have a good, not threaded length.


Fine thread.

A few close fit washers, if these can not be found, get the next smaller size and drill to size, and nut to fit.


A couple extra nuts.

A couple brazed carbide bits.

Cut off the head of the bolt.

Center mark your disks.

Drill to just fit the bolt, confirm it fits grinder.

Also, some grinders may have a threaded backer on the motor side of the wheel. If so, you can thread your disk. The bolt must have the same thread.

Insert bolt in collet with threads sticking out lonk enough for a washer and nut.

Place bit in side of vise and make the nuts small diameter, reason will be clear in a bit.

Now reset bolt, so not threaded part is out of the collet.

Place a washer first, then one skinny nut, then disk followed by last skinny nut.

You now can turn flat BOTH sides of the disk as well as turn the diameter.

You can face the disk all the way to where the skinny nut is located.

Your vise is the tool holder.

If you place the cutter in the vise just right with the top at an angle, you can use steps to make a tapered face on the disk.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

Thanks, tq60. My bench grinder has a 5/8" shaft. I understand your process and appreciate the detail.

 

[JimFromAZ]

Instead of a mandrel use a bolt ( or studding ) & nut through the hole. Do them all in one go with the tool tip outside the vice to give clearance.

Seems like a reasonable approach. Thanks, Parlo!

 

[tq60]

5/8 is a standard and common collet, we prefer the 5/8 sized end mills.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Hi All,
I'm making giant steel washers for my bench grinder (one step in trying to eliminate vibration, and, yes, I'll dress the grinding wheels). These disks are 2.5" in diameter and I'm milling them to 0.250" thick on a manual PM-728VT. The next step is to mill a 0.625" center hole which should fit perfectly on the bench grinder axle.

Finally, I want to mill the outside diameter concentric with the center hole. The final diameter isn't critical but I imagine I probably need to remove 5 or 10 thou. I don't have a lathe, just the vertical mill. How do I mill the circumference? On a rotary table? If so, and assuming I now have that 0.625" center hole, is there a recommended way to mount this disk to the rotary table? Any suggestions other than a rotary table?

Thanks Everyone! Jim
View attachment 471817

The way I have done this operation on the past for similar parts is very simple.

On your rotary table use 2ea. 1,2,3 blocks set far enough apart to allow you to make the hole with clearance, set your work piece on top of the blocks and use the t-slots in the table with t-nuts and strap clamps to hold it down. Center up your work piece, clamp it down and drill a .500" hole in the center then change over to a small end mill 1/4" would be my preference and make laps inside the .500 hole checking at each lap the size of the hole until your have it the size you need.

Once you have your hole use a bushing to space it off the top of your table, you'll have to play with what you have; but I would use a 1,2,3 block with strap clamps to hold it down centered on your rotary table with a spacer or bushing and the work piece on the top with a bolt through into one of the threaded holes in the 1,2,3 block. once you have the piece centered up use the same end mill and clean up the OD.

That is how I performed this type operation before I had a larger selection of tooling to choose from.

Just as a thought; another way you could work the OD would be to remover the guard on your grinder place the piece on the arbor and tighten it up, turn it on and dress the OD with a file and flat stone...

 

[Parlo]

If the hole is 1/2" or below. Hold the ring on a bolt with a nut then hold the bolt thread in a pistol drill chuck then spin the ring over a linishing belt to clean up & add some chamfers. If the hole is above 1/2" then make a tube to suit the hole & the thread size.