Mill Question; Time to buy my first one

Thanks everyone &
Tom, thanks for the tip about the taper

I contacted the seller to take a look. I'm pretty sure it is the 2nd time he listed it...had "0" interest in it the first go around

Will you all posted

tks
 
I don't see power requirements nor spindle taper listed.
Both may be important to you.

This ad is poorly documented, you need to go look at it.

If you have to have single phase, it may not work for you.
If it's 3-phase 230V, a VFD costs about $150
If it's 460V I would pass, unless it happened to be a 460/230 motor. But you have to check.
My most recent mill purchase had a 460/230 motor, but internally the leads for 230V were no longer present.

This one looks like a post-1970 machine

I guess you read all of this? http://www.lathes.co.uk/toolmaster/
 
I don't know that 40 taper would be a deal-killer.
there are adapters to R8. This one is pricey but there are cheaper ones.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRI...re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

You could also get one to adapt to ER-type collets, which may be easier to work with than R8

From what know I know of Cincinnatis they could be ordered in almost any of dozens of configurations, including spindle taper.
You just have to assess each one individually.
 
outsider347 said:
Thanks everyone &
Tom, thanks for the tip about the taper

I contacted the seller to take a look. I'm pretty sure it is the 2nd time he listed it...had "0" interest in it the first go around

Will you all posted

tks
Click to expand...

It looks like end mill holders and MT drill chuck arbors run $50-$100. You can get a collet chuck in #40 for $140 which will allow the use of ER-40 collets. What he is calling "collets" may in fact be end mill holders so you might be ahead of the game if you get four with the machine. All that rigidity comes at a cost.

Tom
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Billy G
Based on your footprint estimate, I think this one in too big for my shop
As I mentioned, it s only about 5 mi from me. If anyone else is interested, I'd be happy to go to take a look, get pics & ask the owner questions
LMK

Thanks again to all for the info
 
Outsider.
One thought to consider that has not been brought up is size versus experience. Larger machines require a little more experience due to the higher power and possibility of thrown objects. While a full siize mill would be a very nice addition to any shop please remember that with a larger mill comes an increased amount of power. If for one reason or another your not 110% on the securing of the material to the table you could create a shop missile or worse could be injured if it comes loose. So in addition to a mill I would suggest that you invest heavily in proper step blocks and clamps with the initial purchase to prevent a mishap. Safety is cheap. one trip through the ER will more than pay for a mill and all the clamps you will ever need or want. I frequently have to visit the ER and it is no fun when the bill arrives, even after Medicare pays it's part and my foundation pays it's. Please adopt a safe attitude from the beginning and it will pay you dividends throughout your machining career. Just my .02, glad youre having great success finding a myriad of machines to consider too. Keep learning and reaching, everyday!!!
Bob
 
outsider347 said:
Billy G
Based on your footprint estimate, I think this one in too big for my shop
As I mentioned, it s only about 5 mi from me. If anyone else is interested, I'd be happy to go to take a look, get pics & ask the owner questions
LMK

Thanks again to all for the info
Click to expand...


Go look at it anyway if it's that close to you. I can only go by what I see. That picture would be better if that had left something to judge size by. This happens all to often.

"Billy G"
 
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