Oil based blue gray paint

I used automotive base coat clear coat on my lathe bench. Had the painter at the shop shoot it with his little gun and the match came out near perfect. As far as durability, nothing even comes close
 

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Pevehouse said:
I used automotive base coat clear coat on my lathe bench. Had the painter at the shop shoot it with his little gun and the match came out near perfect. As far as durability, nothing even comes close
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If I were doing a full on restoration, I'd do something similar. Sand blast, two part epoxy primer, and a single stage urethane. That's how I do motorcycle frames and similar, and it's fantastic. Nason Fleet catalyzed urethane is the best paint I've ever sprayed.
 
Nesse1 said:
If I were doing a full on restoration, I'd do something similar. Sand blast, two part epoxy primer, and a single stage urethane. That's how I do motorcycle frames and similar, and it's fantastic. Nason Fleet catalyzed urethane is the best paint I've ever sprayed.
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Speaking of spraying he could always spray the Rustoleum, if he was on a budget. I’ve done it. Thin it with some good reducer and it goes on nicely. It’s durable too if you add a little enamel hardner
 
Nesse1 said:
If I were doing a full on restoration, I'd do something similar. Sand blast, two part epoxy primer, and a single stage urethane. That's how I do motorcycle frames and similar, and it's fantastic. Nason Fleet catalyzed urethane is the best paint I've ever sprayed.
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I have been thinking of going to epoxy primer on all my project machines. Been using UPOL 2253 and it’s done well but I hear so many good things about epoxy
 
woodchucker said:
I have an account as well. Still expensive compared to Rustoleum.
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I would note that my experience is the SW paints I've used dries much slower than rustoleum, so for the first few weeks it's not very robust.
 

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Krylon alkaloid enamel hardner is the cheat code to making the paint dry fast and hard.
 
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It depends on the solvent. Mineral spirits solvent component paint takes quite a while to dry, and definitely a couple weeks to get tough. But it sticks in spite of dirty surfaces and gets hammer hard when it does finally cure. The SW alkyd I used last seemed to have a lower solids percentage than Rustoleum enamel. I'm happy with the durability of both once doctored with additives and cured.
 
Enamel Gardner really is the ticket to Rustoleum. I have reduced it with acetone and added 1 part Gardner with great results
 
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