POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

I have been on a major spring cleaning binge as I make room for the mill, and part of that has been trying to get control of my organization. I picked up some reamer storage cases a while back to sort and identify all my misc. reamers, and spent some time last night doing that. I am almost finished, so at least one thing is done
Where did you get your reamer storage cases?

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OshPark.com does 4 layers pretty fast now. Starting to use that more often.
Yeah, 4 layer really makes routing much easier on high density boards. Oshpark really needs to jump on the YouTube bandwagon. JLCPCB sponsors several youtube episodes from various channels, I think they get a lot of business that way.
 
I did a 4 layer design in KiCAD, 2 wiring layers and 2 power plane layers. This was for my ELS controller. It was a through hole design so not that strenuous. It was the first PCB that I did on KiCAD at home. (Previous design experience was, ahem, maybe 30 years before.) I made 10 boards, some from JLCPCB and some from PCBWAY, a different Chinese manufacturer. Reviewing the boards, the JLCPCB's were cheaper and better, but that may have been a one time event. JLCPCB was fast, and offered a (one time) discount, so I got five ~100x100mm 4 layer boards for $2. That included slow boat shipping. 40 cents each! Built up a couple, including one for upstairs development, which made life easier, while developing ELS code. Using PCBs is infinitely better than working on breadboards. Power planes = much lower electrical noise.
 
Recently acquired a 10" 3-Jaw Bison chuck which works very nice but weighs ~100lbs and somewhat awkward to mount to the lathe. Decided to make a chuck sled to make mounting easier, used epoxy to glue up some left overs Linen Phenolic board. Used some 1.25" aluminum rod between the front and rear phenolic supports and secured with 3/8" SS cap screws on either end. Works quite nicely to slide the chuck in/out of the D1-4 mount. My back appreciates the sled.

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@mksj Nice! I like the aluminum spacers/guides. I made chuck sleds for my 6" chucks. I don't know how you can live without these. Mine are all wood but I may steal this idea next time. Another interesting idea by locking the handle in the chuck!
 
POTD was doing some much neglected maintenance on our Massey Ferguson 35 tractor. I use the tractor to brush hog trails in our woods/river walk, and finish mow about an acre of lawn.

The tractor was running like carp. I gave it some choke while hitting the starter; no coughing or sputtering. After hitting the starter a number of times, I could smell gas; probably flooded. Pulled a plug to confirm it was wet. I laid the plug on the block and hit the starter. If I used my imagination, I could see a spark.

Pulled the distributor cap, rotor and the points were in REALLY bad shape. One contact was burned completely through. Full disclosure, I bought a high-energy ignition module (www.hot-spark.com) to replace the points 6 or 7 years ago but hadn’t gotten around to installing the kit. As a lot of my “contemplating my navel-tint” projects go, I figured it’d be a royal pain to install and avoided it.


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Hey, "McFly", I think this is your problem!
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Much to my chagrin, the module dropped in VERY easily. I had to file a slot in the mounting plate for it to fit over a screw head, but other than that, a 15-minute job. Yeah, I wish I’d have done it 6 or 7 years ago when I first bought the kit! As you can guess, the tractor fired up like it should. Thank you www.hot-spark.com!


The plastic keyed detail has 4 internal magnets that "tease" the coil
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Next step was throwing the finish mower on. I went to hit the Zerks, and noticed one was missing. It was a new one on me, the Zerks are threaded ¼”-28 straight threads, not an 1/8”-27 pipe thread. And guess which size I have. . .

I could have picked up ten ¼”-28 Zerks for $7 off Amazon overnight, but made a brass bushing to adapt an 1/8”-27 Zerk instead. Chucked up a piece of ½” hex brass, faced, center drilled, tap drilled and ran in the 1/8"-27 pipe tap. Parted, faced the opposite side, center drilled and drilled a through-hole. Then turned a shoulder to 0.248” and threaded with a ¼”-28 die.


Brass 1/8"-27 pipe thread female to 1/4"-28 straight-threaded male adapter
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Part 3 of Massey 35 maintenance only has a “project done” photo. While mowing, my right foot was getting hot. Yeah, the muffler patch I put on a year ago had blown off; the top of the muffler has a dozen pin-holes in it. So, quick fix was throwing a piece of ¼” plywood on the running board.

Longer-term fix, after removing the partially burned (?!?!) plywood, was forming a stainless-steel heat shield for the top of the muffler. I didn’t show the work, but did the rolling on my Harbor Freight 3-in-one sheet metal machine. I also did some bending on the DiAcro brake to close up the “U” to a “C”. Slipped the stainless over the muffler and hose-clamped it in place. And I may just end up replacing the entire exhaust system if this patch doesn’t work; they’re only around $100 delivered for a complete new exhaust system.


Didn't show the work, but made a hose-clamped on "heat shield" for the pin holes in the muffler. Does it get hot? Well, probably around 450 F where my foot rests as the 1/4" plywood temporary heat shield was practically burned through!
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Thanks for looking, Bruce
 
Once you get used to using surface mount parts, it's hard to go back. Having both sides of the board available for components almost doubles the available board space. The next step multiple layers of copper. OshPark.com does 4 layers pretty fast now. Starting to use that more often. I don't think they do blind and buried vias yet, tho. Those really open up possibilities.

For home I stick with 0603 and larger (usually). For $DayJob$, usually nothing smaller than 0402. But BGA packages are getting more common, and those are getting smaller. Worst layout was 1629 components, and 5110 electrical nets. Four 100 pin BGA's, and 1 484 pin FPBGA, in a 4.5 inch circle.

Yeah, I do this for a living so if you have any question, feel free to PM me... :)
JLCPCB offer 20 layer boards. My head hurts thinking about designing for 20 layers. So far 2 layers does everything that I have needed.
 
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