Redlineman's Logan 200 Rescue

Eureka!

In a desperate attempt to stay ahead of TomKro in our rebuild slow race to nowhere in particular, I WORKED ON MY LATHE TODAY! This is yet another example where I've dragged my feet on some perception of evil and doom lurking in the project just ahead, only to find it was a no brainer and wasn't worth a scintilla of fret.

What had been holding me up was gear binding. My lathe has been crashed into oblivion numerous times in its life, to the point that the idler shift gear LA-191 was completely missing, rendering the cross feed drive inoperable. The bearing bracket LA-196 was broken and had been welded; a fairly common malady for these lathes. Both the remaining miter gears LA-188 and 189 that drive the idler show the scars of battle, having some fairly significant tooth deformation in spots. The very nice used idler gear I purchased did not mesh well with 188. A bit of sleuthing showed a couple of things. First, as Mister Ed posited, there is indeed a bend in the pin that the idler shift gear rides on, but I don't think it is enough to cause a problem. Second, 188 did have a couple of well dented teeth that caught every time. Imagine a crash violent enough to break brackets, bend gear teeth way out in the apron, and bend the idler shift pin?! A little profiling with a file and 188/191 run nice and smooth. Certainly nothing to stew over for 6 months! So... very quickly, we are here;

LoganApron1.jpg

Lots of juggling trying to get all this stuff together, as anyone who has ever done it knows. The biggest problem with aprons is you can't see what the hell you are doing back there. The last thing I snugged down was the LA-196 bearing bracket, and the next problem became apparent; the lead screw won't turn.

Loosen the bolt that holds the bracket to the apron and it turns fine. Tighten it again, and it binds. Pretty dang hard to see anything back there, but looking in all the way from past the change gear area shows the bearing bracket cocking upward when the bolt is snugged, jamming into the lead screw and bowing it upwards. I have no idea when the repair to LA-196 was done (although it appears to be done well), whether the lathe actually ever ran after that, or whether it has anything to do with this at all, but I now have to come up with a fix. :thinking:

Right off the top of my head, I can think of two ways. The easiest thing to do would be to open up the hole in the apron to allow for some adjustment, but I'm not sure that is the best way. The other would be to tear it all back apart again and attempt to set up the bracket on the mill such that I could change the angle of the mounting surface a bit. The difficulty in actually doing that accurately (how to measure how much?) is nudging me toward the inelegant fix, even though I dislike the thought quite a bit.

:dunno: One thing I will say is that it won't take me another 6 months to decide. Gotta stay ahead of Tom, after all.

LoganApron1.jpg
 
Redlineman: I'm starting to feel the pressure.

I just pulled apart my spare carriage, and I'm really happy about the condition of the parts. Not sure if my spare gears and pins are better off than yours, but I know I have a spare miter gear bracket, and it doesn't appear to have any cracks. If you want to give it a try, just let me know and I can put it in the mail.

TomKro
 
Thanks Tom;

Most generous of you. I would almost guarantee that if they are gears that you would use, they are better than mine. Mine are pretty flippin ugly. I would be glad to purchase anything that you have extra at fair market value.

Now, to the basement to yank that saddle... again.
 
OK...

I have suddenly realized that Tom and Ed are in cahoots, and trying to slow me down so they can win the slow race!

:roflmao:

No... I should have known this was not going to fly. The broken and welded lead screw miter gear bracket LA-196;

LoganCrossfeedPinionAssy.jpg

When I have this assembly in place, the bolt threaded, but not tightened, the lead screw turns fine. When I tighten the mount bolt, the lead screw will not turn. When I watch the bracket as I tighten the bolt, it cocks straight up and bows the lead screw. I had reasoned that the weld looked good and strong, but seeing this development has me wondering exactly how one would set this up to weld it, and assure that it was square and true? It would take a fixture far more sophisticated than the part to achieve this, and that was certainly not done. As good as the repair looks, I have to assume it failed in the end. I'm left to wonder whether it was ever run in this state, and the condition of the miter gear may answer that.

LoganMiterGearLA-189_1.jpg

LoganMiterGearLA-189_2.jpg

The clear evidence of abuse and neglect. Surprisingly, the other miter gear LA-188 is only marginally tweaked, but still shows signs. Further surprise is that they run fairly well when paired together. That is in a static state, however, and may not prove to be the case when under load.

More to come....

LoganCrossfeedPinionAssy.jpg

LoganMiterGearLA-189_1.jpg

LoganMiterGearLA-189_2.jpg
 
OK...

I have suddenly realized that Tom and Ed are in cahoots, and trying to slow me down so they can win the slow race!

:roflmao:

LOL!!! I think you might need to use a big arse triangle file on that gear.

I am out of commission for winter ... too honking cold out there. I did have my tailstock in the den the other day (don't tell better half). Somehow the spindle is binding in the housing and I'm not understanding why.
 
Redline,

It looks to me like there is enough meat to the bracket to bore and sleeve it. And then bore the sleeve straight with the mounting surface.

Also, it looks from the one photo like the key is a separate part. How is the key held in place?

Robert D.
 
UPDATE;

TomKro is a most generous guy. Far beyond the pale. "A few" spare apron gears he offered to send me actually meant ALL of them. I'll be working to even up for that one for a long time!
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So, after juggling the apron for the last few days, I have learned how to take it on and off with my eyes closed. With the use of Tom's fine replacement bevel gears, I have what I consider a reasonable performance from the saddle in terms of the lead screw turning "freely." I ended up having to use both bevel gears. As pictured previously, my LA-189 was hammered. LA-188 had only a couple of teeth that showed any damage, but it was enough to cause a bind and so I replaced them both. I still had to do a lot of fiddling a juggling with the bevel bearing bracket to keep it from binding the lead screw. There is still a slight bind in the gears in one spot, but I think it will run itself in without incident.

Interestingly, my lathe has benefited from being crashed more than running, in that it has not seen a lot of wear where you would expect it, like the bearing in LA-196. The bushing in my broken holder, and the gear shaft that runs in it, are far less worn than the replacements that are very nice in the teeth. You make the best choices you can with what you have and move on.

Now to the saddle. That is already proving to be equally fiddly...
 
Glad to hear that the apron parts worked out.

Since you're working on the saddle, don't forget to clean the paint out of those itty bitty wiper mount screw holes.
Kind of tough to access with a tap once the saddle is back on the bed.

I see chips in your future....
 
I feel a LONG way from chips.

So, this saddle thing.. Perplexed, and not at all happy with the results so far. I put the front gib on and don't quite get it. If I snug it down so that there is no play, it binds the carriage solid. If I loosen it so the carriage will slide at all, I can chunk it up and down freely. This is going to be very fiddly, and I'm not impressed so far. Any tips from experienced rebuilders appreciated.

I'm left wondering why rollers could not be used on such things? Something adjustable for tension, like the gib, but with Delrin wheels on it to reduce drag. It would seem a perfect solution to me.
 
Not an expert, but...

I'm guessing you've oiled the heck out of everything.
Any possibility the spacers (LA-348) are in backwards?
The ones on my saddle have a notch to clear a ridge in the bottom of the saddle.
 
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