Sherline Mill 5400 or 5800 and Packages

adam.mccormick

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Anyone have any experience with Sherline's 5800 mill or opinions on it over the 5400? I am about to get a full workshop from them but am undecided about the mill selection. I feel like the larger working area of the 5800 would be great but to my, admittedly untrained, eye it looks less rigid than the 5400 and seems like it would be prone to moving out of tram and deflecting a lot.

Would appreciate any thoughts you might have on these 2 mills.

Also I am curious if anyone has any suggestions on the full workshop packages that Sherline provides; are they a good deal? Should I build my own package (i.e is there tools in the package that I should just avoid etc). I like that I can get the basics all up front but if there is a better way to put this together I would like to know.

Thanks for any advice!!
 
Wow, over 2K for a Sherline mill!!! It has extended range and is similar to the 2000 with regard to the head adjustments but I cannot imagine a Sherline mill costing that much.

I own a 5400 mill; got it maybe 25 years ago. It is a very capable mill, especially since I added the 15" column, column riser and headstock riser. It has done all I asked of it and maybe a bit more. In my opinion, what Sherline is doing with this 5800 mill is trying to expand the envelope of the machine without significantly improving the rigidity. Personally, I would opt for a PM25MV before I invested 2K in that machine: http://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-25mv/. Or perhaps consider buying the 5400 and upgrading the column to give you more headroom if your work is going to be limited to the smaller stuff. Do not underestimate the 5400. It is a very capable little mill, but it is little and can only handle little stuff. Still, it will do everything that a bigger mill will do within its envelope and it will do it with precision.

On the off chance that you go with a Sherine mill, I think you would be better off without the package. Buy a better keyless chuck, like a 3/8" Rohm Supra and buy an adapter from Sherline for it. Also buy a good 2" screwless vise (an import will work fine); it will be more accurate and rigid than the aluminum Sherline vise. You will need a flycutter but buy the 7620 inserted carbide one; it is world's better. Save the clamping set for when you really need it; the vast majority of work can be held in the vise. I think a tooling plate is a wise investment and mine lives permanently on my table.

You can buy spotting drills instead of center drills and they will work better for starting holes. Sherline end mills tend to be good quality but are expensive for what they are. You can get better on ebay; ask the guys for recommendations. For tool holding, one of the best options you can get is a Beall ER32 chuck to fit the Sherline spindle. It comes with an import collet set but it is enough to get you cutting. I would not bother with Sherline's end mill holders; make your own if you want them but with an ER32 collet chuck you won't really need them at all. The books that come with the set are reprints of the instructions found on their website so I wouldn't let that influence me. However, you should by Joe Martin's book, Tabletop Machining. It is an excellent primer that showcases Sherline equipment.

I love Sherline equipment. In the micro-machine line, I think they are the best out there (sorry Taig guys!). Their accessories tend to be high quality, work well and cost less than other small machine tool makers. I particularly like the 4400 long bed lathe and I think this is the best small precision lathe on the market in its size class. BUT this applies only if your work envelope is appropriate for these machines. If you need to or may need to go bigger, now is the time to go bigger.

I suggest you think on this, ask more questions here and then decide if these machines are appropriate for your needs. I own them, I love them, but I also own larger machines for when the need arises.

Welcome to HM, Adam!!
 
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I have a Sherline mill and lathe. I have pushed both above their limits. My lathe head is now my toolpost grinder for my real lathe. I agree with Mikey. Unless you are only doing small precision model work in the foreseeable future look at a larger machine from PM.
Robert
 
Everything depends on what you are going to do with the mill.

It should be clear that Sherline makes miniature mills and lathes. Can pick up the entire mill with one hand. It is not a bad thing it is what it is. They are quality for what they do, miniature parts. Some people do only that and it is fine, others would like to make larger things and "Outgrow" the Sherline miniature tools.

For the cost of new Sherline machines I would agree with mikey to look at the precisionmatthews machine. Because that machine can ALSO DO any miniature part you want to make but do more life size type things too.
 
I wanted to add some perspective on the Sherline mill. If you can bolt it down or clamp it in a vise then the Sherline mill will cut it. You have to take lighter cuts because the mill is not as rigid as larger machines but it will cut just as well and just as accurately as a larger mill. Although it excels for very small parts, I have done comparatively large parts with this mill and did just fine.

So, how big is big or how small is small? I've cut 5" discs out on the rotary table, no problem. I've squared and profiled/slotted numerous pieces up to 6" across. As long as I can clamp or lock it down on the table, I can cut it with the Sherline mill. I've bored out to 3", although that is pushing the envelope on this mill.

Quite honestly, I got along with the Sherline mill for decades and only stepped up to a larger mill maybe 5-7 years ago. The larger mill is capable of larger work but not better work. It is faster but not any more precise. So, if your work is on the smaller side then a Sherline mill will work for you, but not for 2K. For 2K, there are better deals that will also do small work, as Cadillac said.
 
Thank you all for your great advice!

I'm going to stick with the 5400 mill as I think, Mike, you kind of confirmed my suspicions. I was also looking at larger mills for the same price. As you pointed out you can get a larger machine for the practically the same amount. My problem is space; I live inner city and in a relatively small apartment so space is at a premium. At this time and I think the 5400 is a good size for my needs. My work is going to be limited to smaller stuff for now and I'm fine with that.

I also appreciate your feedback on the package deal. I've been in contact with Sherline's sales department asking about getting the package with the mill upgraded with their new ball screws but will probably scale that back to just what I need from them and source the other tooling as you suggested.

Again thanks everyone for your help!
 
It might be a nice idea to get it with ball screws and ask them to be sure it is CNC ready. They do sell the mill "CNC ready." That way you can easily add the CNC kit to it. Without ball screws it is a bigger deal to go to CNC. CNC requires ball screws.
 
Adam, Sherline sells a boring head. Do not buy it as it is too lightly constructed to be really useful. A better head is the Criterion S-1-1/2A head that takes 3/8" tooling. It will look like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRITERION-...445597?hash=item56a69c411d:g:JmcAAOSwXaRaLG1X

This is small, square-shaped head that is of much higher quality and very accurate. It requires an adapter with in internal 3/4-16 female thread to fit the spindle and an external 7/8-20 thread to fit the boring head. Little Machine Shop used to sell this adapter but they may no longer carry it. If you cannot find it, you'll have to make it. The ebay item is priced way too high but if you are patient, a good one will turn up. Most ebay heads will be B-type head that takes 1/2" bars - too much weight to be swinging around. The A-head that takes 3/8" tooling is better.

The other thing I wanted to mention is that in order to maximize your work envelope, consider buying the 15" extended column, the column riser and the headstock riser. These will give you more room under the head for taller work. It will also give you more room in Y and you will need every inch of it.

Otherwise, if you have questions, ask.
 
Another option for aquireing the sherline packages is to wait it out on eBay. When I was considering them two years ago I would see the used packages in the 50-60% about once a month
 
Adam, what are your plans for a lathe? I understand space is limited but you NEED a lathe as much or more than a milling machine. In a job shop, the mill does 75+% of the work but in a hobby shop, the lathe is used much more. For me, I would rather have a lathe and do without the mill than the other way around.

On the off chance that this is on your radar, take a hard look at the 4400 long bed lathe. If your work falls inside the work envelope of this lathe then I can highly recommend it. For its size, it is powerful and very, very accurate. With a lathe and mill, you can make many of the accessories you need for hobby machining and this adds to the joy and functionality of the hobby.

Not many machines with this capability can be stored in the hallway closet, trust me.
 
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