Should I use Anti-seize when re-assembling the VN-12?

7HC said:
And it means looking up the correct torque for the size and material of that bolt, and just as important, whether it's lubricated or not.
Dry threads require a lower torque than lubricated ones.


M
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Torque figures for the fastener size, and grade, yes.
(Dry threads require a lower torque than lubricated ones) Im not so sure about that. A dry thread tends to have more friction, and will also tend to give a reduced clamping force when torqued to a given figure.

When trying to get the best torque figure, the threads should be lubed, and also the head of the fastener that it seats to. Both will be areas that friction will affect the clamping force. For a bolt that calls for X-amount of torque, lets just say ft/pounds for example, will have a higher clamping force if, the threads, and under side of the heads are lubed. Dry will create friction, and reduced clamping force.

Over the yrs, Ive torqued down many sets of hi-buck connecting rods. The manufactures also called for one torque value, and they also called for the bolts be lubed with moly based lubricant, or if dry will have a reduced clamping force. The idea in torqueing your fasteners is to get the proper clamping force, and any friction causes error. Such as dry, burred threads, or rust in the thread hole, they all play a factor.

The only other way Ive torqued con rod fasteners is the stretch method. This method you Mic the bolt, and start increasing torque to get the manufactures stretch value. But thats a completely different topic all together.
 
8ntsane said:
Torque figures for the fastener size, and grade, yes.
(Dry threads require a lower torque than lubricated ones) Im not so sure about that. A dry thread tends to have more friction, and will also tend to give a reduced clamping force when torqued to a given figure.

When trying to get the best torque figure, the threads should be lubed, and also the head of the fastener that it seats to. Both will be areas that friction will affect the clamping force. For a bolt that calls for X-amount of torque, lets just say ft/pounds for example, will have a higher clamping force if, the threads, and under side of the heads are lubed. Dry will create friction, and reduced clamping force.

Over the yrs, Ive torqued down many sets of hi-buck connecting rods. The manufactures also called for one torque value, and they also called for the bolts be lubed with moly based lubricant, or if dry will have a reduced clamping force. The idea in torqueing your fasteners is to get the proper clamping force, and any friction causes error. Such as dry, burred threads, or rust in the thread hole, they all play a factor.

The only other way Ive torqued con rod fasteners is the stretch method. This method you Mic the bolt, and start increasing torque to get the manufactures stretch value. But thats a completely different topic all together.
Click to expand...


You are correct of course, dry threads require a higher torque than lubricated ones due to the higher friction.
I knew what I meant but my fingers obviously had a different opinion (damn fingers making me look bad! :angry:).


M
 
I am a member of the use anti-sieze side of the discussion. A small dab goes a long way so use it sparingly and torque each fastener to the required torque. The main reason I prefer to use AS is because dissimilar metals will tend to stick sooner than others, so I add a little dab of insurance to everything I do. AS will make a huge mess, so use it very sparingly like you were paying for it by the thread. If properly assembled and torqued a fastener will be easy to remove again in the future no matter how long it has been assembled. For me it is just a form of additional peace of mind. I earned my living as a car and heavy truck mechanic and between PB Blaster and Anti-sieze I used quit a bit over the years. I also use loctite in Blue, red and green, just depends on what the use is and how important the assembly is. Just sayin.... You can use it or not, but if you are using flood coolant and it is water based, I definately would just to hedge my bets in the future.
Bob
 
And anti-sieze is an excellent lube on the backside of a buddies padlock. I've also heard you can paint a house with just one small can of anti-sieze, or so it seems. LOL

Edit: correct spelling (lets see, i before e except after c) or something like that.
 
HSS said:
And anti-sieze is an excellent lube on the backside of a buddies padlock. I've also heard you can paint a house with just one small can of anti-sieze, or so it seems. LOL

Edit: correct spelling (lets see, i before e except after c) or something like that.
Click to expand...

However, 'seize' is one of the few exceptions to that rule! ;)


M
 
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