Treadmill Motor Help Needed

the mc60 does not have a tack ,by installing the the motor start and stop switch in the pot wiper wire you don't have to turn down the pot every time you start the motor.
 
So is the MC60 drawing your schematic marked" page 1 of 1"?
So then put an on/off switch in the White wire headed to the pot?
Are you saying I can eliminate the speed sensor?
 
I think you would want a switch to power off on the AC in so that nothing is energized when it's "off". The speed at start-up will be wherever the pot is set to. If the pot is set half-way when you turn it off, and it has not been moved, then when you power it back up, it should go to the speed that it was with the pot at half-way. There is no need for a speed sensor unless you want to measure the speed, but it's not required to run the unit, that was just needed when it was living as a treadmill.
 
yes you want 2 switches 1 for power the unit on and the second one to turn the motor off and on , which goes to the pot center wire ( wiper)
 
Thanks Guys, I will give it a try in the morning.

Randy
 
Yeah! I got it running. It seems that there is some lag in the motor starting. Then it must have instantly jumped to its 5K rpm. I had not secured the motor well. It jumped off its mount and the fly wheel landed on the cord and in less than 5 seconds abraded its way through the 110 volt cord. No real damage was done and it is running fine now.
One final question: How does a 2.5 HP DC motor develop that much horsepower with a max input of 15 amps at 120 VAC?

Thank you very much for your help. Otherwise the whole thing would have ended up in the trash. Now I have to start building a belt grinder.

Randy
 
randyjaco said:
One final question: How does a 2.5 HP DC motor develop that much horsepower with a max input of 15 amps at 120 VAC?
Click to expand...

Good question Randy. I designed all sorts of electrical products for a large consumer product company and we had ethics. We always stated continuous horsepower for our motor operated tools the same way that we were required to do for UL or CSA compliance.

There are many many ways to get peak horsepower ratings from motors that are separate from continuous rating. You can put the motor on a dynomometer and get the peak horsepower, before it heats up and this is much higher than the continuous rating within it temperature rating. This is no different than the shop vac guys do. I just bought a 4.5hp shop vac...Really? It is just marketing BS.

If your product is approved to UL standards then the UL rating plate will give you the maximum output at the maximum continuous temperature rise as required in the appropriate standard.

David
 
I agree with what David said, consumer device HP ratings seem to be more BS than a real measure of performance.
Glad you got it all working! Love those moments of pandemonium when you flip the switch and everything goes berserk.
Hopefully there will at least be enough torque to run the belt grinder. Was this going to be direct drive, or belt coupled?
 
Bill, I will probably go with belt coupled. I really haven't decided what type of grinder I will build. It will be a 2 x 72", so I have a lot of options. Yeah, when the motor fell over, I thought the whole thing would take off across the shop and cause all kind of death and destruction.

I spent the rest of the day installing all those electrical parts in to a more permanent project box , so it looks a little more tidy than the previous pictures. BTW I did end up only having to use the one controller board

David, I have a 6.5 hp Shop Vac 8^)
 
What is horse power? Is ir a poney or a clydesdale ?
 
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