POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

rabler said:
Jeff
I’d have to go back and read up again. I used GhostShield products, which are pricey but well reviewed. Other similar products are cheaper. A hardener and a separate sealer. Chemically bond and harden the top layer, then fill in pores just below surface. Almost indistinguishable from an untreated surface when dry. Surface seems more abrasion resistant, not miraculously so but noticeable. Beads up oil and water to some extent, both will eventually penetrate which is why I am considering another application. I didn’t use anywhere near the recommended amount per sq ft as it needs to soak in rather than dry on the surface. I waited the recommended weeks before applying to new concrete but moisture content was an issue.
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High quality densifiers & sealers are available from Protecrete and Sika (among others). As the names imply, they penetrate the concrete, changing the structure to make it denser and seal to prevent penetration. At the same time they allow the concrete to breathe. Applied by certified contractors, they come with warranties. I have seen several year old floors in raw food processing facilities treated so that they could pass FDA inspections that they previously failed. Products that can withstand food oils & organic acids as well as caustic chemicals will perform well in most industrial environments.
 
rabler said:
Jeff
I’d have to go back and read up again. I used GhostShield products, which are pricey but well reviewed. Other similar products are cheaper. A hardener and a separate sealer. Chemically bond and harden the top layer, then fill in pores just below surface. Almost indistinguishable from an untreated surface when dry. Surface seems more abrasion resistant, not miraculously so but noticeable. Beads up oil and water to some extent, both will eventually penetrate which is why I am considering another application. I didn’t use anywhere near the recommended amount per sq ft as it needs to soak in rather than dry on the surface. I waited the recommended weeks before applying to new concrete but moisture content was an issue.
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Not necessary. Found this for the product, 200 sq ft / gal
www.lehmans.com

Water Glass - liquid sodium silicate

Water glass (liquid sodium silicate) allows for an old-fashioned way to make fresh eggs last and last - for up to several months. But that's just one of its uses. Dilute water glass for use as a transparent sealer for cement or concrete floors Use full strength as an adhesive...
www.lehmans.com
 
I used the same product on my floor and have been pleased with it. Doesn't look pretty like epoxy but pretty much eliminates dust, and strengthens the surface as Chazz said above. I put on several heavy coats at the recommended intervals. I have a fair amount left unmixed, that is way past its shelf life date. Not sure what exactly goes bad. Maybe Pontiac 428 might be able to enlighten us. Mike

rabler said:
Jeff
I’d have to go back and read up again. I used GhostShield products, which are pricey but well reviewed. Other similar products are cheaper. A hardener and a separate sealer. Chemically bond and harden the top layer, then fill in pores just below surface. Almost indistinguishable from an untreated surface when dry. Surface seems more abrasion resistant, not miraculously so but noticeable. Beads up oil and water to some extent, both will eventually penetrate which is why I am considering another application. I didn’t use anywhere near the recommended amount per sq ft as it needs to soak in rather than dry on the surface. I waited the recommended weeks before applying to new concrete but moisture content was an issue.
Click to expand...
 
FOMOGO said:
I used the same product on my floor and have been pleased with it. Doesn't look pretty like epoxy but pretty much eliminates dust, and strengthens the surface as Chazz said above. I put on several heavy coats at the recommended intervals. I have a fair amount left unmixed, that is way past its shelf life date. Not sure what exactly goes bad. Maybe Pontiac 428 might be able to enlighten us. Mike
Click to expand...

If you mean the silica/water glass, it never goes bad unless it dries out.
 
Turned and bored these four today
wheels1.jpg
These were the worst steel I have ever worked with.
HSS wouldnt touch it I had to use sharp carbide.
It was a drive shaft from something with splines on one end and flanges in the middle. It looked like it had been drop forged.
The noise was horrendous but it was all I had.
I managed to drill an 8mm through hole but no larger so used sharp carbide boring bars for the 12mm and 16mm holes.
Maybe I should have annealed it but as the carbide was working I was too lazy to try.
welded 12mm all-thread in one end
wheels2.jpg
and welded the other end onto the wheel shafts , these 2 are the steering arms.
wheels3.jpg
Painted black so you cant see how bad my welds were.
All because I was too cheap to buy 4 replacement pneumatic tyres for the trolley.
wheels4.jpg
Another honey-do out the way.
 
woodchucker said:
Not necessary. Found this for the product, 200 sq ft / gal
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I'm no chemist, but I believe the concentration varies by product/brand, and thus the coverage. I used the GhostShield 4500 hardener and GhostShield 8505 sealer (water and oil resistant). The 4500 I used claims 1000 sq ft per gallon. There are a couple of different chemical make-ups for the hardeners. I picked what I did from an old post somewhere on here, and the manufacturer's website recommendations, so I'm definitely not an authority. Sounds like @ChazzC might have more experience.

I ended up with quite a bit left over. I bought the recommended amount for the floor square footage. Leaving too much on the surface, i.e., any puddling, tended to cause a white hazing on the surface which I was able to clean up. The instructions warned of that issue. I believe I had too much moisture in my slab at the time so it wasn't absorbing well. This was when the shop was new so I wasn't willing to wait longer for the fall when dry weather comes around. I wanted to do it before moving anything in.
 
FOMOGO said:
Was referring to the Ghost Shield product. Thanks, Mike https://www.amazon.com/Siloxa-Tek-8500-Ultra-Concentrate-Penetrating/dp/B08K1F9MXG/ref=sr_1_3?adgrpid=1235851406769626&hvadid=77240880365864&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=71673&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-77240973844385:loc-190&hydadcr=2848_13641870&keywords=ghostshield+8510&qid=1707662146&sr=8-3
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Ok, that's a simple one. The tertiary amine will degrade and the product will settle into the alkyl silicate that it's meant to after application. It will eventually cure in the bottle.
 
Working on the cooler for the air compressor... need to make a trip to Lowes... I bought the wrong size for the copper tubing. Need 3/8" OD copper tubing. I bought 3/8" ID.

I am using material that I had around the house to build the bracket...

Cooler for AirCompressor-1.jpeg

Professional welders, look away...

Cooler for AirCompressor-2.jpeg
Cooler for AirCompressor-3.jpeg

Flat black spray paint to the rescue... hides my sins on the bracket...

Cooler for AirCompressor-5.jpegCooler for AirCompressor-4.jpeg

Installing the cooler...

Cooler for AirCompressor-7.jpegCooler for AirCompressor-6.jpeg

And the water separator...

Cooler for AirCompressor-8.jpeg

Will be right back, let me get the correct tubing... I am trying to finish this today.
 
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