- Joined
- Dec 6, 2012
- Messages
- 2,677
A cotter pin press tool would be handy and a lot easier to make.
Like for breaking bicycle chains?
Daryl
MN
A cotter pin press tool would be handy and a lot easier to make.
I've come across a cup and cone bottom bracket for a 70mm shell. ... The best option is probably to find the pieces in better shape than mine, another option is to try and use a modern sealed cartridge which according to some should work but then I can't use the original crank. My question here is how hard is it to machine pieces like this, can they be repaired? The races for the bearings on the moving cup are a bit worn.
I've come across a cup and cone bottom bracket for a 70mm shell. This is from the 1970's and not normally an issue as the Italian standard was 70mm shells. But the threading on these cups is English. English threaded cups use a 68mm shell so there's one mismatch. The other one is that the spindle is tapered 3 degrees instead of the standard 2 degrees. The best option is probably to find the pieces in better shape than mine, another option is to try and use a modern sealed cartridge which according to some should work but then I can't use the original crank. My question here is how hard is it to machine pieces like this, can they be repaired? The races for the bearings on the moving cup are a bit worn.
I had to replace the 105 with a Ultegra and then a Dura-Ace before the shop said they gave up and put in a Phil Wood BB which has not failed, nor has my American Classic BB. The shell of the Bianchi with the 105 group was prepped with the right tool to cut the seat and align the bracket on the stationary side...
By the way, Phil Wood made sealed units in the 70's. I had one, but sold the bike... Look on eBay...
There is a firm in England that sells bottom bracket parts in all sizes. I looked them up a while ago when I was building recumbent bikes/trikes. Casn't remember the name but if you try different wordings when googling you should find them.They would be darn hard to machine. You could anneal them, machine them, and then re-temper them but the effort would not be worth it.
That's my opinion though. It IS possible.
Mark S.