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Mill tooling from scratch.
- Thread starter 428Bird
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2010
- Messages
- 937
That's a good looking mill with a long table. Enjoy
Ray
Ray
C
cg285
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instead of the rotary table you think you need i would get a set of collet blocks - i use them all the time. next would be a dro with functions that calculate bolt patterns, etc
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2014
- Messages
- 2,130
+1
I purchased a rotary table when I got my first mill. Finally a few weeks ago I used it for the first time (8 years later)
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2018
- Messages
- 2,724
I second a few of the posts about Shars. I personally own a benchtop mill, but I also purchased tooling with the bridgeports at school in mind.
My opinion...
Essential items:
1) Vise. Get a decent one but don't go crazy. You'll want a second down the road so you can buy the fancy Kurt then once you know what you want.
2) R8 collets. I agree ER chucks and Tormach TTS are nice, but until you need to spit out parts quickly, you can deal with changing the collet every time.
3) Parallels. Buy cheap ones. You'll probably drill into them a few times as you get going and you don't want to cry over expensive tooling.
4) Edge finder. Basic wiggle ones or a slightly more expensive electronic LED one is worth the extra few dollars in my mind.
5) Keyless drill chuck. I have 2, my shars one is very nice and very little runout. Buy the R8 to JT33 taper adapter too.
6) 115pc drill set. Buy a real cheap one and replace the drills with nice ones as you wear them out or find bad ones. I don't use many of them but I like having the full set so I have the correct tap drills.
7) Endmills. Buy HSS or look for used tooling sales. Avoid carbide until someone here has convinced you to switch. Your wallet starts crying when they break.
8) Dial or test indicator on magnetic Noga style base. Also a indicator holder for the spindle. You'll need to to tram your vise / locate hole centers. Shars has nice cheap ones. stick to .0005" or .001" (the .0001" will drive you loony)
9) One decent fine tooth single cut file.
10) Calipers. Here is one place I'd say buy a little nicer on. You want to trust your measurements and you will use them until they die (and price does equal lifetime when it comes to calipers)
11) You'll need way oil for you machine. Also WD40 works fine as cutting oil for aluminum, not as good on steel.
12) One of those 50 something T-slot clamping sets comes in handy as soon as you need to hold something not in the vise.
13) Center drill or spot drill, tap handle, taps, 5 flute 90* countersink (works for chamfering too), etc.
Have fun and remember you can always order more, don't go crazy at first. Everyone with all the fancy tools has accumulated them over decades, don't feel bad!
My opinion...
Essential items:
1) Vise. Get a decent one but don't go crazy. You'll want a second down the road so you can buy the fancy Kurt then once you know what you want.
2) R8 collets. I agree ER chucks and Tormach TTS are nice, but until you need to spit out parts quickly, you can deal with changing the collet every time.
3) Parallels. Buy cheap ones. You'll probably drill into them a few times as you get going and you don't want to cry over expensive tooling.
4) Edge finder. Basic wiggle ones or a slightly more expensive electronic LED one is worth the extra few dollars in my mind.
5) Keyless drill chuck. I have 2, my shars one is very nice and very little runout. Buy the R8 to JT33 taper adapter too.
6) 115pc drill set. Buy a real cheap one and replace the drills with nice ones as you wear them out or find bad ones. I don't use many of them but I like having the full set so I have the correct tap drills.
7) Endmills. Buy HSS or look for used tooling sales. Avoid carbide until someone here has convinced you to switch. Your wallet starts crying when they break.
8) Dial or test indicator on magnetic Noga style base. Also a indicator holder for the spindle. You'll need to to tram your vise / locate hole centers. Shars has nice cheap ones. stick to .0005" or .001" (the .0001" will drive you loony)
9) One decent fine tooth single cut file.
10) Calipers. Here is one place I'd say buy a little nicer on. You want to trust your measurements and you will use them until they die (and price does equal lifetime when it comes to calipers)
11) You'll need way oil for you machine. Also WD40 works fine as cutting oil for aluminum, not as good on steel.
12) One of those 50 something T-slot clamping sets comes in handy as soon as you need to hold something not in the vise.
13) Center drill or spot drill, tap handle, taps, 5 flute 90* countersink (works for chamfering too), etc.
Have fun and remember you can always order more, don't go crazy at first. Everyone with all the fancy tools has accumulated them over decades, don't feel bad!
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2018
- Messages
- 5,646
I'd suggest a 3/4 straight shank for the chuck, then cut it in half. Much easier to get in and out without cranking the knee up and down. Don't know why they make them so long.
Wait on the rotary table, watch CL, you'll save a lot of money.
DRO
Edge finder
Quill stop
Since you have 5c collets for your lathe, get a set of collet blocks.
Wait on the rotary table, watch CL, you'll save a lot of money.
DRO
Edge finder
Quill stop
Since you have 5c collets for your lathe, get a set of collet blocks.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2014
- Messages
- 49
I hadn't considered the straight shank for the chuck - you're right, it's really long with the R8 shank. My collets are Holbrook specific collets made by Crawford back in the 50's. Not only are they oddly sized, but they've got whitworth threads for the drawbar.
Britt
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2016
- Messages
- 623
I like your mill Britt and you have some nice stuff there too . Started out life as a twin head hydraulic tracer . Is there a knuckle in back of the head somewhere ? I forget never had much time on one of those . OK , you need a Criterion boring head .
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...MIn7i38KzT2gIVgtdkCh1REQTzEAYYASABEgI6kfD_BwE
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...MIn7i38KzT2gIVgtdkCh1REQTzEAYYASABEgI6kfD_BwE