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2019 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter GoceKU
- Start date
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 415
Yeah- AMP Certi-Lok was made when Triceratops roamed the planet. The Open-barrel crimpers, for their (TE Connectivity, as it is now known) Mate-n-lok pins & sockets, go for $350+ these days
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,451
Franco, I also have a set like that, they do require much more effort to make a crimp, and the crimp terminal is rough, my previous job had me cramp 6-700 terminals a week, and the longer the the handles on the tool easier they are to use, you can apply much more force with ease, here is one more set of pliers i have for bigger terminals you can see how long the handles are in comparison to my lathe's compound.
For home work the pliers you've got are perfect.
For home work the pliers you've got are perfect.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,451
Today i had little time to spare, so i wanted to do some work on the Little Niva, because is talking way too long, i started by test fitting couple of sets of radiator fans and managed get those to roughly fit, they are 350W a piece so i'll need to run thick cables to wire them and couple of relays so i can have two speeds, then i moved on to the dents in the door and the roof that i pulled out i give them a send with some coarse sandpaper and lay down a thin coat of body filler just to cover the clean steel, i could have worked a bit more but the garage is such a mess i'm constantly looking for tools, parts, tripping on stuff, i'll need to spend a day or two just to clean it enough to where i can work.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,451
Today's project is to finish as much as i can on the wheel spacer for the Little Niva, i took it to a friend machine shop, he has a better drill press that drills straight, i marked and centre punch the both bolt hole paterns at home and drill them there, i chamfer the holes for threading, then i took it to the big garage on the big bench and tap the holes with M12x1,5 that gun tap is extremely good, threading is as easy as scrowing in a screw, i did use a good tapping oil, then i selected couple of drill bits and a MT2 drill to make the countersinks for the bolts and socket, i did not finish countersinking all the holes but i had to test fit the wheel to see how it fits, and i'm satisfed, this is a 195 70 R15 tire, is smaller in diameter then the factory tires but is wider and the plan is to use this set for summer and the factory 175 80 R16's for winter.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,330
alright, finished up the knife with a day to spare!
had to remake the pivot pin as the hardened O1 one snapped, good lesson in why tempering is such a good idea.
blade hardened very well, tempered it back to brown colour. A file will now bite (would just skate across after hardening) but takes more effort than before. Hopefully it'll be robust, though most likely the most challenging task it'll have is cutting up apples.
all together, did a bit of engraving too. Blade is tight with no pivot play and a tiny bit of side to side play, but opens and closes without too much effort. It has a positive close but the open position has about 10 degrees of movement from over cam and fully open. Chalk that one up to experience for next time.
full open one side
and the other
we'll be giving it to my Dad tomorrow after Sunday dinner.
had to remake the pivot pin as the hardened O1 one snapped, good lesson in why tempering is such a good idea.
blade hardened very well, tempered it back to brown colour. A file will now bite (would just skate across after hardening) but takes more effort than before. Hopefully it'll be robust, though most likely the most challenging task it'll have is cutting up apples.
all together, did a bit of engraving too. Blade is tight with no pivot play and a tiny bit of side to side play, but opens and closes without too much effort. It has a positive close but the open position has about 10 degrees of movement from over cam and fully open. Chalk that one up to experience for next time.
full open one side
and the other
we'll be giving it to my Dad tomorrow after Sunday dinner.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,613
POTD was making some bases for 4 x 6’s for a punching bag stand. My wife and I “train” in a discipline called Savate which is French Kickboxing. I hesitate to call what I do as “training” as at 59 I’m old and slow and have no plans on going into the ring. I’m the definition of awkwardness and lack of grace, but it is a good workout.
The gym we go to recently changed locations with the new site lacking in equipment. My wife drew up a bag stand for punching/kicking bags made from 4 x 6’s, everything held together with deck hangers and 5/16” lag bolts. Deck hangers are designed for deck screws, so all of the appropriate holes were drilled/punched out for the larger 5/16” lags. Didn’t shoot photos of that or the cutting of the 4x6’s to size, used my Delta miter saw for the cutting. Attached a short chunk of 4x6 to the deck hangers for marking/drilling/pre-running the lags in place. The beams were all numbered for easy, quick installation at the gym.
The vertical poles needed bases to set on which was this POTD. Cut 2 x 12’s to length and used my CNC Bridgeport to mill an 1/8” deep pocket to capture the ends of the poles. The bases were lagged to the poles which would probably hold up OK without a milled pocket, but my thought was a mechanical lock around the perimeter of the poles would give a more robust joint.
CNC routine ran pretty quickly. Used a ½” end mill and ran a G-code for milling a rectangular pocket. This particular G-code assumes the cutter starts in the bottom left hand corner. I provided the width, height, step over for each pass and the diameter of the cutter. The routine can also run a finishing pass with different parameters, but for “router” work, the roughing pass was good enough.
I have to admit to still getting a kick out of the hand wheels turning on their own . . . The job went pretty quickly with a feed rate of 80 inches per minute.
Went to my Craftsman 10” table saw to bevel the edges, reduce the chance of stubbed toes. I see another POTD in the works as it’s starting to get really old cranking on the tilt hand wheel of my table saw to set angles. I see an arbor in a cordless drill cranking on the hand wheel in the very near future!
Photos of the final bag stand are below. Our gym is the Michigan Muay Thai Academy in Lansing, MI. Though I am old and slow, there is some stress relief in kicking and punching the crap out of a bag!
Thanks for looking,
Bruce
Don't have a CNC router in my shop, but a Bridgeport CNC mill does a pretty quick job!
Cut bevels on the vertical pole bases on my table saw
Finished bag stand.
Close up of the base boards
The gym we go to recently changed locations with the new site lacking in equipment. My wife drew up a bag stand for punching/kicking bags made from 4 x 6’s, everything held together with deck hangers and 5/16” lag bolts. Deck hangers are designed for deck screws, so all of the appropriate holes were drilled/punched out for the larger 5/16” lags. Didn’t shoot photos of that or the cutting of the 4x6’s to size, used my Delta miter saw for the cutting. Attached a short chunk of 4x6 to the deck hangers for marking/drilling/pre-running the lags in place. The beams were all numbered for easy, quick installation at the gym.
The vertical poles needed bases to set on which was this POTD. Cut 2 x 12’s to length and used my CNC Bridgeport to mill an 1/8” deep pocket to capture the ends of the poles. The bases were lagged to the poles which would probably hold up OK without a milled pocket, but my thought was a mechanical lock around the perimeter of the poles would give a more robust joint.
CNC routine ran pretty quickly. Used a ½” end mill and ran a G-code for milling a rectangular pocket. This particular G-code assumes the cutter starts in the bottom left hand corner. I provided the width, height, step over for each pass and the diameter of the cutter. The routine can also run a finishing pass with different parameters, but for “router” work, the roughing pass was good enough.
I have to admit to still getting a kick out of the hand wheels turning on their own . . . The job went pretty quickly with a feed rate of 80 inches per minute.
Went to my Craftsman 10” table saw to bevel the edges, reduce the chance of stubbed toes. I see another POTD in the works as it’s starting to get really old cranking on the tilt hand wheel of my table saw to set angles. I see an arbor in a cordless drill cranking on the hand wheel in the very near future!
Photos of the final bag stand are below. Our gym is the Michigan Muay Thai Academy in Lansing, MI. Though I am old and slow, there is some stress relief in kicking and punching the crap out of a bag!
Thanks for looking,
Bruce
Don't have a CNC router in my shop, but a Bridgeport CNC mill does a pretty quick job!
Cut bevels on the vertical pole bases on my table saw
Finished bag stand.
Close up of the base boards