What have you done in your shop lately?

Hondas are right-hand thread. Starting in about 1988, Honda Vtec engines did rotate in reverse compared to convention, but the solution for them was to simply make a bolt that fits too tight to ever come loose due to engine rotation. There is a dirty little trick if the engine is still in the car- put a breaker bar and socket on the crank through the side of the driver's front wheel well. Place the handle of the breaker bar against the ground (don't hold it, best to stay clear). Disconnect the ignition fuse and crank the engine. It works. I prefer to use a big impact, but in a pinch... Also, if the crank pulley has never been removed, you will need heat. Not a lot, you'll ruin your front main seal if you overheat it, just a good 300F or so to soften the factory thread locking compound.
 
In between trying to remove the nut/bolt I found it quite useful at times to flip the script and give a few wacks to tighten then switch to back to trying loosening and if its possible to heat the fastener that would help.
 
pontiac428 said:
Disconnect the ignition fuse and crank the engine.
I have done this before, but it sure makes me nervous. I am picturing one starter pinion tooth against one flywheel tooth. I just came from the dentist, and this whole "tooth" thing just plain hurts....
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pontiac428 said:
Also, if the crank pulley has never been removed, you will need heat.
This is the key, I will bet. I will order a front main seal, because I KNOW how I am:eek 2:

Thank You, Mr. 428.
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Sorry to combine your words and mine. Seriously, I am only 3 hours away from the dentist's chair, and well, you know, I am probably NOT in my right mind.
 
Another useful tool for Honda crank bolts is called a torque multiplier. It's basically a little planetary gear that has a square drive in and out with a lever to hold (er, wedge) in place. Torque goes up by the multiple of the gear ratio. I used to use them on tank undercarriages and heavy off-road trucks with 53" Goodyears.

The best thing that you have in your favor is that the engine is still in the car. The first one I did wasn't.
torque-multiplier2-500x500.jpg
 
Thanks to all for advice on the Honda crank bolt. See the pic for the setup that did the trick. I did not use heat, only the magic elixir applied twice in 24 hours. This same setup, with NO elixir, blew up my Cornwell 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter. The adapter pictured is from Horror Fright, still in one piece. The experiment is flawed due to the elixir and the hammering that killed the Cornwell tool but the HF tool IS made in Taiwan!

CRV balancer.jpg Sorry for blurred and upside down.
 
I didn't work in the shop so much as on the shop.
I'm taking out one of the passage doors, filling in the space so I can mount an electrical panel and run 60A 240v service. Currently running off a 15A circuit. Once I get 240v I can use my Unisaw.
 
Installed two panels of siding to cover where I removed one of the garage passage doors.
Dug a 25 ft long trench to run proper electrical to the garage and mounted the panel.
Roughed in the conduit.
So done for the day.
Tomorrow I pull wire.
Stoked at the prospect of 240v in the shop!


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I designed and CNC machined a stop rod clamp to use my tapping head arm stop on my drill press. I've had a stop rod screwed to the table for a couple years and it always seems like it's in the way. This one clamps onto the quill with one 1/4-20 cap head screw. The stop rod is just long enough that it won't interfere with anything.
 

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Pulled the wire today. Went flawlessly.
Couldn’t find the right size/make of breaker for the main panel so no 240v Unisaw love just yet.


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