110v or 220v single phase

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Driveslayer45

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I just got my hands on a new to me drill press the motor can be wired for either 110 or 220. I recognize 220 volts will draw less current but is there any practical advantage to 220 from a performance perspective? For example will I get more torque from 220 over 110?
 
I’ve always understood that 220v allowed a motor to produce its rated hp with less heat.
I have absolutely now empirical evidence for that so I’m interested in what our experts say.


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Typically, with transformers and motors, the 220v windings are more power efficient (~5%, equals thermal efficiency difference). Small motors are more conveniently powered through 110v (more outlets available). Big motors benefit from splitting the load across two legs, like you've already pointed out.

You should really make your final choice based on what kind of power you have available and where. If I tried to throw my small 220V compressor in the trunk and rolled over to a friend's house, I'd need to bring a power adapter of some sort with me. That's not convenient at all. It's not even that convenient for me in my shop, because I only have Schüko outlets in two corners of my shop (don't tell city hall, please).
 
It sort of depends how large the motor is. On a half horse power motor, it won't make a bit of difference. On a 1HP motor (which I believe draws near 15 amps on 120V) there will be a little more line loss, particularly for the momentary inrush when you start it - so the motor will act a bit sluggish. Connected 240V, it will can easily be set up with the same supply wiring (still 14 gauge) and the current will be half that, so the losses will be 1/4 as much.

The actual current in the motor windings in unchanged (just the windings are in parallel or series (the voltage across each coil and the current thru each coil will be the same regardless - assuming you connect it per the supplied schematic).
 
It's an old powematic 1150 drill press, I think it has a 3/4 horse motor ( don't quote me). I have a 220 circuit going to my lathe, I can come off that with another outlet if it's 220 is best
 
I have a Powermatic 1200. Mine's a 3-phase beast. I don't think the 1150 is any smaller or lighter. Both the single-phase and 3-phase versions can be wired for all the typical input voltages. I think this machine may be happier on 220 so you don't dim your lights on inrush.
 
Thanks. I just downloaded a manual for the 1150, I need to review it and I guess make a decision..
 
Now, I will give an answer to the question not asked. Power companies deliver 220 to your home. It gets split into two legs of 110v. The power company charges you for whichever leg has the greatest current figure. i.e. If you have one leg drawing 45 amps, and another leg drawing 60 amps, you get charged based on 60 amps, and not 45 (it is the way the meters are intentionally constructed). So, if given a chance to put all your loads on 220v as versus 110v, your electric bill will be less. For most of us hobby folks, we don't run them enough hours in a day to make a difference.
 
addertooth said:
Now, I will give an answer to the question not asked. Power companies deliver 220 to your home. It gets split into two legs of 110v. The power company charges you for whichever leg has the greatest current figure. i.e. If you have one leg drawing 45 amps, and another leg drawing 60 amps, you get charged based on 60 amps, and not 45 (it is the way the meters are intentionally constructed). So, if given a chance to put all your loads on 220v as versus 110v, your electric bill will be less. For most of us hobby folks, we don't run them enough hours in a day to make a difference.
Click to expand...

I did not know this.
So is it safe to say that balancing the actual loads at the panel would result in a more accurate consumption profile?
Say in your example 60A + 45A = 105A total draw from both legs.
If the loads were distributed evenly across both legs, the theoretical the draw would be 52.5A for each leg.


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