- Joined
- Feb 1, 2021
- Messages
- 14
The real tricky part was getting the stator out....
You are a magician. That's amazing.The real tricky part was getting the stator out....
Nice rewind. Where did you get the coil winding fixture, is that totally home built?I did it myself. Honestly, it never occurred to me to rewind as three phase. Mostly because I do not have three phase in my shop, which means phase converter, rotary phase converter, or VFD. All of which seemed like overkill for this. But then again, I did not think about the potential implications in surface finish. I'll wait and see how the new bearings do after I put it all back together.
The $120-ish is what I have into copper, nomex paper, varnish, and tools (made a winding machine). The replacement motor from Grizzly is $450 plus shipping, and you really have no idea what you're going to get. It might not even fit. I called around to the few shops that still to motor rewinding locally. The general answer was "it would not make economical sense". For me that boiled down to re-wind it myself or junk it. In terms of what I literally put into the rewind, just the copper, nomex and varnished I used, It's more like $60 and I have a bunch of supplies left over and a winding machine.
You have a very nice shop from seeing all the background in the photos.
Also, thanks! Third time's a charm The winding fixture is made from this wire winding mold on Amazon, a NOS Veeder-Root mechanical counter from eBay, and scrap I had lying around. I could have made it far more intricate. But, as it is, it worked really well... all three times.Nice rewind. Where did you get the coil winding fixture, is that totally home built?
Nope, no rivet. Just really poor qualityI see some grinding of what I assume was a rivet.
Hah! Yeah, that was tricky. As you may have noticed, the main section of the motor housing and the tapered end bell housing are one casting. From there it is machined and the stator pressed into the blind hole. Normally the housing would be heated to 500 degrees or so and then dropped onto the stator, but that would involve a fixture and is more expensive in general. If I get the other thread started I will go into more detail, but the punchline is: I drilled holes in the shoulder of the tapered bell housing, tapped them, and drove the stator out.What was the trick to remove the stator from the cast iron motor housing?
That's funny, my 5C spin indexer (straight off the boat) showed up today! I have a few items I would like to do a similar operation on.So this morning I was fixing a 3/4" diameter 82 degree counter sink using the surface grinder.
The 5C spin indexer is handy.
Thank m8!You are a magician. That's amazing
I have no issue with you putting that information here. Or a link to your new post. I was looking for anyone that had a similar machine, and how they improved the surface chatter that I'm still plagued with. It's better, but not good enough. Although in earlier posts on this, the suggestion was to just use very fine wet or dry sand paper and lap any surface to removed the ripples.If I get the other thread started I will go into more detail, but the punchline is: I drilled holes in the shoulder of the tapered bell housing, tapped them, and drove the stator out.