Leland Farady Motor Wiring

[karlsangree]

I just purchased a 1940s(?) South Bend heavy 10. The previous owner's son cut the wires (grrrr....) from the motor to the reversing drum switch to remove the lathe from the bench. Unfortunately, the wires were all red and unmarked (as seen in drum switch photo). I have attached a photo of the motor's faceplate. I can't find how to rewire this motor. All the posts I've seen have diagrams of wires P2-T3-T8 but I'm pretty sure T8 was not tied to P2-T3. I'm hesitant to hook it up as I don't want to burn anything up. Also, the wiring diagrams all have L1 and L2 but I assume this is P1 and P2 in my case. This was wired by the previous owner (deceased) for 120V and I would like to do the same.

I plan on replacing the power cable with a 12 gauge but 14 or 12 gauge from the switch to the motor? Thanks!

On a side note, what is "TAPE" on the motor faceplate? Tape the wires together?

On edit: I am assuming the Leland is an aftermarket motor?

Thanks.


EDIT: Added this diagram of my reversing switch. I don't have the cover so I'm not sure whose it is. I'll be replacing it as the forward contacts are pretty well worn.

 

[benmychree]

Yes, it means twist the wires together and apply tape (or a wire nut).

 

[karlsangree]

Ok, I think I figured it out. Can someone give me a sanity check on this?

 

[markba633csi]

Let me see
I see an error- don't plug that in
Give me a minute I'll post a sketch for you
This should work: swap T5 and T8 as required for proper rotation
14 ga wire should be ok for a short run from switch to motor- 6' or less
12 ga for switch terminals 5 and 6 and motor P1 and T2, T4 if you can manage it (main power wires)

 

[karlsangree]

Let me see
I see an error- don't plug that in

Thanks so much! You're a lifesaver.

That makes sense because the previous owner had P2 and T3 tied together at the motor. There was a jumper connecting terminals 4 and 6 on the drum switch. Is this not needed in your configuration?

EDIT:No,I don't need the jumper. I just tested the switch virtually and I see in your configuration, the jumper is not required. I'm not sure why he had there in the first place. Thanks again mate!

 

[markba633csi]

You're welcome Karl- there may be an alternate configuration, I just picked the first one that came to mind
Don't forget to ground the switch case and motor housing for safety
-M
That's actually a 3-phase reversing switch but it works well for this application too
You should post a picture of your lathe- I like heavy 10s- came close to buying one a couple years ago

 

[karlsangree]

Yes, will definitely wire it properly including correct grounding... good reminder. The previous owner had the ground wire from the power feed shoved willy-nilly into the tube that runs from the input power junction box to the reversing switch and hadn't connected it to anything. It wasn't even stripped back. I am doing a full restoration on this lathe including all the wiring. I decided to go all 12 gauge and found a 6 color assortment of 10 feet, 12 gauge wire rated at 600 volts and -60 to +200 degrees Celsius on Amazon.

Thanks again for your help. I'm usually pretty good with electrical but just had a total brain fart on this one.

Take care.

 

[karlsangree]

You should post a picture of your lathe- I like heavy 10s- came close to buying one a couple years ago

Hey Mark,

Just wanted to say thanks again. I got everything rewired this morning for the second time and your wiring scheme was spot on. The first time... I got all the wires into a loom and pulled the loom through to the switch mount and realized I forgot to run a ground to the motor ::grrrr:: so I had to pull the loom out, insert the ground wire, and pull it back through. Not the end of the world, but certainly at least an 8.7 on the aggravation meter.

Anyway, it's working flawlessly.

Since you asked, here is a pic (in mid-rewire). This is a 10L model 8187AN with a 4' bed. It came with both the collet and taper attachment. A little Internet sleuthing let me discover that its serial number (128729) dates it to 1942.


Thanks again!

 

[markba633csi]

Nice- If I remember correctly the 8187 was the "toolroom" version with the extra-precise leadscrew, made to tighter tolerances than the
standard issue one

 

[jcjr1952]

Karl,
I cannot tell you how much your post with Mark saved me a lot of grief as I was just about to get started on rewiring the Heavy 10 I just purchased with 110V Motor/Switch configuration. I see the switch mount image in your last post after wiring your loom. Could you post an image of the Switch mount from the rear of the lathe so I can see how it is attached to lather. My Heavy 10 Switch is mounted in another improvised location and I want to change it back to the Original Switch Mount (if I can find one).
Thanks so much,
John