It's good that you both know how and have the means to do so. Probably have a 100x more experience than I do, in this area as well.@WobblyHand My most inexpensive reamer was around 100$ - made in USA, and still out of spec. That's why I 'fix em'
I drilled with 7/32, then 15/64 (0.234375") , then attempted to ream to 0.2490" using WD40. Pin was 0.2495". Reamed hole was > 0.2503" since the reamer itself measured that big. Pin fell through the hole...No where was there a question or mention of the starting hole size. If there is not enough meat for the reamer to do some work on it won't ream to its nominal size. E.g.: https://www.hannibalcarbide.com/documents/pre-ream-drill-size-chart.pdf
Since chucking reamers cut at the tip, re-sizing per Dabbler's method is not too invasive. Between centres, same number of swipes on each flute.
A machine reamer cuts on the chamfer at the tip so don't worry about rounding the cutting edges over. It is the outside of the flutes that need reducing. Pop the reamer in a drill chuck - spin slowly in reverse - hold a flat oilstone vertically against the flutes to remove a few tenths. This will preserve the cutting edges.I drilled with 7/32, then 15/64 (0.234375") , then attempted to ream to 0.2490" using WD40. Pin was 0.2495". Reamed hole was > 0.2503" since the reamer itself measured that big. Pin fell through the hole...
I don't understand the position of the stone relative to the reamer and spindle axis. How is the stone held in place so none of the edges are rounded over? I have never experienced this sort of operation. I do not understand the 3d geometry. If I could visualize it maybe I could do it...
try this. you have now dulled your reamer. Most people use dull reamers, so hey, why not? If you examine the result under a loupe or a toolmakers microscope, you will see a flat edge where your cutting edge should be coming to a point.Pop the reamer in a drill chuck - spin slowly in reverse - hold a flat oilstone vertically against the flutes to remove a few tenths. This will preserve the cutting edges.
The reamers do not cut on the flutes. This process simply increases the land by a tenth or so.try this. you have now dulled your reamer. Most people use dull reamers, so hey, why not? If you examine the result under a loupe or a toolmakers microscope, you will see a flat edge where your cutting edge should be coming to a point.
You absolutely *can* do this, as long as you sharpen it again by removing that flat by honing the relief angle.