70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

[guero_gordo]

I've read through your whole thread. Good looking truck. After your journey learning about the mechanical wonders of the small block Chevy and get to drive it a bit; consider re-painting the whole truck. It looks like a keeper to me. Here in SW Ohio you can't find them like that without costing an arm or a leg one way or the other. Us hill billys would be jealous.

When we moved to CA in the 70's, my Dad marveled at the old cars still on the road. Not classics(well not yet, anyway) just road warriors still in daily use.

 

[guero_gordo]

While crawling underneath and installing the new steering tie-rods, I noticed the idler arm boots were trash, so went ahead and ordered a Moog off The River.
Part arrived missing a boot+castle nut+cotter pin, so I returned it and ordered a replacement.
When the replacement arrived.....it was missing the same bag of stuff.
The only reason this is interesting is: for once, I dropped the RMA part off the next day, so I'm 99% sure they just shipped me the same one.
I'm writing my initials on the box every time I return something from now on

 

[guero_gordo]

I could have just tacked this onto my Summit order, but since I thought I had the part coming.....SMH

 

[guero_gordo]

As you might expect, there was as much as 5/16" of "poor man's undercoating" accumulated on these parts. An indication that someone did grease them, so mostly a good thing, but a bit of work chipping it off

 

[guero_gordo]

old spindles and the whole drum assy going bye-bye:


Driver's side was a PITA, mostly through ignorance, but for passenger side I added a tool to the arsenal, which made getting tierods and upper balljoint apart faster and easier. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B64NFT56

This^^ was not deep enough to use on the bottom balljoint, but thankfully this side didn't fight me as hard and a fat pickle fork plus BFH was sufficient to break the taper loose

Skipping ahead a bit, CPP spindle on (prior to attaching tierods)

 

[guero_gordo]

The conventional wisdom is that you can grind just a bit off the caliper and get enough room for stock(3-nub) wheels, so on the driver's side I had started doing that....and then I stopped. It's possible it works for 16" wheels, but I ordered 1/2" wheel spacers from Baer.



about 8 years ago, the 4-nub wheels that were introduced in '71 to fit over disc brakes were commonplace and cheap, but that supply seems to have dried up because I've been looking since I started this with no luck. I'll keep scrounging and eventually when I get at least 3 of them, I'll remount the fronts(and spare) and lose the spacers.
From what I've read. Spacers have a bad rap because if you don't get hubcentric ones, OR use centering rings, they'll vibrate at high speeds and then you'll die a gruesome death, which is sub-optimal for the completion of the project

 

[guero_gordo]

Wheel Vintiques makes some very nice steel smoothies, and they even call them "OEM", BUT I can't use my original wheel covers with WV wheels, so that's no good for me. IT also makes me wonder exactly what they think OEM stands for,....but I digress.

 

[guero_gordo]

Another option for wheels. These are refurb, so presumably rolled back into shape and paintable, so a lot more convenient than scrounged CL wheels.

Jante Wheel STL00939U20UOE

Free Shipping - Jante Wheel STL00939U20UOE with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Wheels at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Found these spacers, from Baer, no less, for literally 20% of what custom parts would cost :

Baer Disc Brake Systems 2000041 Baer Brakes Wheel Spacers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Baer Brakes Wheel Spacers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Wheel Spacers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[guero_gordo]

One of the things that happens when I crawl under the truck, is that I see things that need to be fixed.
This is why I should never crawl under the truck

Pinion gear end of the speedo cable(aka "the bullet) leaking that pretty red stuff:



Some pretty green stuff from the front end of the oil pan:


Presumably it's weeping from one of the seals or the pump itself and running down the outside.
I've actually been working through some of the concretions of old crap with Purple power, but the progress isn't visible yet. Having that clean will make tracing leaks a whole lot simpler

 

[Bone Head]

"Green stuff" might be anti-freeze. Look at the water pump.
And yes; a good cleaning. I would caution against pressure washers as they sometimes force water into places you don't want water.