Camelback Straight Edge Scraping

Richard King 2 said:
NO I didn't say to weld the hardware store bolt to the casting! I said to weld the eye-bolt as it is is a cheap hardware store bent bolt. I also have been thinking about the way you did it.I said to drill and tap a hole. I did say to put it on a pipe to find the balance point and drill and TAP a hole. Usually people drill the hole before they are machined.

You need to do that and don't do what you did as that little rib the weight on it will surely bend.

Here are some pictures of Andy scraping his HKA-36 straight-edge like yours. He worked on it at the Rockford Scraping class we just finished yesterday at Bourn & Koch Machine Tool Company.
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I'm not seeing any pictures in that post? Did the upload not go through or something?
 
Richard King 2 said:
I said to weld the eye-bolt as it is is a cheap hardware store bent bolt.
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Ah! (Laugh) That makes a lot more sense — I thought you might have been making a strange joke. You just meant to weld the eye closed.

Leave it to me to screw up simple instructions, but I don’t think it would have been that much stronger if I hadn’t made the hole in the web. Even if I hadn’t blown through one side, there would have only been paper thin walls in the web portion.

I’m not too worried about the quarter inch bolt opening up or the cast iron rib bending, or more likely fracturing — the thing isn’t all that heavy — but I’ll let you inspect it in a couple weeks. If you think it’s better to drill and tap a hole into the meatier part on the other end and let the thing hang off kilter, I’ll do it and install a better eyebolt.

Seriously, though, I think the concerns may be a bit overblown for a 45 lb. casting. If it were a hundred pounds or two heavier, I’d worry a lot more.
 
Rex Walters said:
and install a better eyebolt.
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Rich’s disdain for my hardware store eyebolt made me self conscious — how can I hold my head up at scraping class? (Laugh)

So I just threw a grade 8 1/4-20 stud and lifting eye ring into my latest order from McMaster. To hide the shame of having made a hole in the webbing, I’ll fill the hole with weldment, grind it back flat, and paint it over. You’ll never know it was there!

(I’m KIDDING about the welding — the hole is permanent, I’m afraid. I may bring some red electrical tape to class for camouflage, though!)
 
Give it a try and see what happens.

But to whom it may concern in the future drill the hang up hole in the casting about 1/2" lower then the ribs. Please do out hang the straight-edge from the ribs.

Andy did not drill a hole as he got the straight-edge from Texas where it was planned on Tuesday night. He lived in WI and drove back and forth to class. He was in a hurry to scrape it before the end of class as he doesn't own a long granite plate.

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Richard King 2 said:
But to whom it may concern in the future drill the hang up hole in the casting about 1/2" lower then the ribs. Please do not hang the straight-edge from the ribs.
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Thanks, Richard. I’m looking forward to speaking again in person. Too much written on the web gets misinterpreted — I certainly mean no disrespect — but are you now suggesting to ignore your advice about finding the balance point? Drilling the hole a half inch below the ribs is a solid inch away from the balance point in my case, and will cause it to hang well off of vertical.

No problem either way, I’m just trying to understand.
 
Yes....I have never seen or recommended drilling into the ribs.
 
Rex, Also I see you have the outside support hole wrapped with rope. That is not a handle if that's what your thinking. You hold the straight-edge when using it at the 30% in from each side ribs. I have wrapped those ribs with red rags and tape when i am using them when scraping Jig bores. I doubt you will see any deformation when handling it bare handed.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your enthusiasm on buying my Straight-edge brand, but please email or call me when your working with it. I am sure i can save you some time .
 
What about the paint color? Red okay, or did I screw that up too? I’m half expecting a lecture on unevenly applied, cheap hardware paint affecting the accuracy. (Laugh)

I also already made a couple wooden feet for the back so I can rest it upside down (roughly on the Bessel points). I can’t go back in time, but I’ll be sure to talk to you before I touch anything else on the straightedge again (for the rest of time :).
 
Rex Walters said:
What about the paint color? Red okay, or did I screw that up too? I’m half expecting a lecture on unevenly applied, cheap hardware paint affecting the accuracy. (Laugh)

I also already made a couple wooden feet for the back so I can rest it upside down (roughly on the Bessel points). I can’t go back in time, but I’ll be sure to talk to you before I touch anything else on the straightedge again (for the rest of time :).
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I generally set it upside down in some of those 2 screw wood clamps. Red is fine...Last week one of the guys told me to use a glass paint that is brushed on. I usually tell folks to buy tractor engine paint.
 
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