0% lower

No Idea,
I ordered around Dec. 20th (I think). Two weeks later I emailed them to see if they had a tracking number for me. No response. But they did arrive and they are very good, worth the wait. I would buy from them again, even though I get nervous with loose ends and my money.


Tom
 
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Thanks for the info n348oh,
I'm the same with regard to paid items with no info. I was thinking about starting a dispute with my credit card but I can wait. I hope it is not too long. I'm hoping mine turn out to be something besides "paper weights" but this is my first try and I've only had a mill for a month, LOL. Good thing my Dad has been running machines for 45 years.
 
I'm in the same boat. I ordered mine on the 7th and no lowers or response since then. I am not in a hurry, but I, like you, was getting pretty worried. I feel better now knowing that yours took a while, but did come in.
 
I ran into the end of shop hours before I did the driver side milling on my first paper weight, got distracted by another project, and finally got around to revisiting the problem.

08_finished_driver.jpg

The first learning experience here is that the nice setup I used cutting the bolt stop slot and magazine release was not going to work for the pistol grip cut with the vise jaw in the way.

The second was that it would have made more sense to just use a taller set of parallels to elevate the pistol grip surface above the vise jaws the first time around.

After leaving the shop I realized this all came from my wood working background -

1. I think of setup in terms of one (fence distance) or two (add a stop) dimensions.

2. Setups tend to be for one cut but perhaps multiple pieces.

3. It's often easy to arrange to get back to exactly where I was if I forgot something - I have miter sled fence stops every 1/32", a couple of flip stops on the drill press fence, clamp a couple of wood blocks behind the router table fence to establish final pass depth, etc.

4. Setups are fast with a lot of tolerance so getting something wrong is not a big deal. It's easy to get within 1/32" or 1/64" which is generally good enough when multiple copies of a piece get made at the same time. Where things really need to fit it's often easy to trim to fit - I can make a box top 1/8" over sized and run around it with a router flush trim bit after gluing it on.

It's still lots of fun.

08_finished_driver.jpg
 
The first learning experience here is that the nice setup I used cutting the bolt stop slot and magazine release was not going to work for the pistol grip cut with the vise jaw in the way.

The second was that it would have made more sense to just use a taller set of parallels to elevate the pistol grip surface above the vise jaws the first time around.

That's what I did, used a tall enough set of parallels to allow the pistol grip surface to be slightly above the jaws, allowing clearance for milling the pistol grip surface. Worked like a champ for me..

Sorry, work has been swamped and dealing with a death in our family has sidetracked my project for a bit.... :dunno:
 
I finished the passenger side (apart from the missing front trigger guard spot face) on one of my 0% receivers and am about to move on to the buffer tower (boring bar and 1 3/16-16 tap). I'm also scheduled to take a Tormach class this weekend which will let me use the machine for engraving at factory depth (ATF requires licensed manufacturers' serial numbers to be .003" deep with everything else ending up there too, and craftsmanship dictates doing the same thing).

09_finished_driver_2.jpg

The release spring hole ending .054" from the magazine release slot was exciting

11_release_hole.jpg

Several things worth noting about Ray's guide are

1. His "flip the magazine release" measuring method to sanity check release spring hole depth doesn't consider any bump on the surface (mine was .011") which would result in a hole that's too shallow.

2. The spot-face for the front trigger guard hole is missing.

3. Trigger guard holes are spec'd at 2.188" from the pivot pin center which puts them a little lower than the 2.18 +/- .010" on the technical drawings I've come across. Obviously the time to learn that was before drilling the rear hole - I'll do that next time.

4. More recent drawings call for the front trigger guard hole to be .625" deep as opposed to "through one side only" on an M16 lower acceptance drawing ca 1970. Presumably that'd become an issue if you used a "tactical" trigger guard that mounted with a roll pin all the way across.

5. The pivot pin detent vent hole really needs spotting first to start on-axis atop its rounded boss.

09_finished_driver_2.jpg 11_release_hole.jpg
 
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Only one minor screwup, I dragged a drill across the lower near the rear safety stop, but I can polish that out.. learned a good lesson.. need 3 eyes.. lol

Your passenger side picture seems to be missing the front trigger guard hole (with corresponding spot face) and the pivot pin detent vent hole?
 
Useful AR15 lower URLs in one spot

Ray Brandes' guide to machining the AR15 lower receiver forging
http://www.lecreg.com/P4x4/ARblank.pdf

D Snider's AR15 lower print.

Upper lug clearance is wrong at .500 -.004 not .500 +.004 front +.005" rear.
Buffer retainer diameter is missing - .255" + .006 which means a .257" F drill. No wonder Ray had to open up his .250" hole.
Take down pin vertical location is missing - .250" - .003
Front trigger guard hole spot face depth not specified

On one page. Not very readable at printer paper size.
http://www.biggerhammer.net/ar15/cad/ar15_receiver.pdf

Split up to print on copier paper
http://www.biggerhammer.net/ar15/cad/ar15_lowerblueprints_unknownorigin.pdf

M16 lower acceptance print. Has some of the missing dimensions. Some tolerances are tighter or one directional. Skip the fire control pocket dimensions and rear shelf dimensions so your AR15 cannot be confused with an illegal M16. The auto sear hole is obviously right out.

magazine release hole is .204 + .003"
pistol grip .218 + .004"
hammer pin X location 3.604 +/-.002 not .003
trigger and safety holes are +/ .0015 relative to the hammer pin not .004" square tolerance zones which allow +/- .002
http://imgur.com/a/u8lNZ

0-100% video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiOxuRwcGiM&feature=player_embedded

0-100% ray's way in still pictures
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=4197
http://www.shell-central.com/AR_Lower1.html
http://firearmsdesigner.com/?p=488
http://theredneckengineer.blogspot.com/2012/11/building-0-ar15-forging.html
 
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Nice work Drew, looking good!!

Update on those awaiting RGuns shipments... don't bother them, they'll eventually ship... lol

I got a shipment notification yesterday from them (UPS tracking) that there are two packages on the way. I ordered 3 items (paperweight, upper assy and lower parts kit) from them on 12/20, though not sure what is shipping yet... should know by Tuesday tho... ;)
 
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