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1024 jet lathe chuck removal?

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barkeep13

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Every thing i read about removing the chuck from what i understand it screws off.
I dont see anything that holds it on. Any thoughts?
Thanks
 

benmychree

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If it is a screwed on chuck, the usual way is to engage the back gears and use a wrench on one of the jaws and try to unscrew it, sometimes some hammering on the wrench is necessary. Not being particularly familiar with the Jet, I can't say definitely, but on similar machines, this is how it is done. On larger machines with gear drives, one can put a wooden block between the rear way and the chuck jaw and reverse the spindle direction on the lowest speed, this reduces shock loading on the gearing, as compared to hammering on a wrench.
Chucks can be difficult to remove if they have been on for a long time and especially if jobs have been done with interrupted cuts, its like using a "rattle wrench" to tighten them onto the spindle. On my 9" Monarch, I block the chuck jaw and with the machine in back gear, I just pull on the drive belt to rotate the spindle backwards.
 

barkeep13

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its been on for some time im sure. Going to soak with oil and work at it. Its not a cam lock so im sure it screws off Just not useing a lot of force to get it off Thanks for your input!!!
 

kvt

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I have 2 10x24s one is a Jet 10x24 PY, Yes the chucks can be stuck with problems , one way was to ensure the belts were tight, Then put it where it takes the most to turn it (forgot rather it is high or low speed). Then put a long bar in your chuck jaws and tap hard with a rubber mallet.
this may be enough to make chuck turn loose. They are screw on chucks, In fact I am also looking for backing plates for mine.
It is approx. 2 inch with 8tpi. It is not really recommended to lock it with the back gear, as you can break teeth on the gears if not careful.
The long bar has work for me a couple of times. But you also have to make sure you do not mess up our chuck jaws.
One of the problems I see with doing the block of wood on the back of the ways, and powering I reverse is it will quickly spin off and crash down on the ways. Or at least that is my thought.
 

benmychree

John York
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I have 2 10x24s one is a Jet 10x24 PY, Yes the chucks can be stuck with problems , one way was to ensure the belts were tight, Then put it where it takes the most to turn it (forgot rather it is high or low speed). Then put a long bar in your chuck jaws and tap hard with a rubber mallet.
this may be enough to make chuck turn loose. They are screw on chucks, In fact I am also looking for backing plates for mine.
It is approx. 2 inch with 8tpi. It is not really recommended to lock it with the back gear, as you can break teeth on the gears if not careful.
The long bar has work for me a couple of times. But you also have to make sure you do not mess up our chuck jaws.
One of the problems I see with doing the block of wood on the back of the ways, and powering I reverse is it will quickly spin off and crash down on the ways. Or at least that is my thought.
When you use the block of wood method, the lathe is in the slowest speed, and you just bump the motor switch so there is no fast spinning, and little danger of the chuck falling down on the ways.
A good plan is to make wood blocks to fit the contour of the ways, and the radius of the chuck, so that the chuck will not accidently fall on the ways.
 

markba633csi

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I think there's a bit less chance of damage to throw a rag into the gears (or between the spindle pulley and belt, on belt-driven machines) and then put a long piece of wood in the chuck jaws as a lever. That's the gentlest way I can think of
 

kvt

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On mine you hit the reverse switch and then hit the stop switch, and it has already spun several rounds. Even though you try to hit them one right after the other. but it may be the switch set up on mine. I have a large plastic cutting board that I put over the ways even when changing a Chuck just in case I drop it (hands do not work as good as they use to). Keep us informed and let us know how it goes.
 
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