5-c Collet Chuck Vs. Lever Style

[BGHansen]

I'm looking at adding collets to my Grizzly G0709 lathe. Any pitfalls to avoid with a collet chuck vs. a lever style closer? I have a 5-C chuck on a Clausing and a handwheel style 4-C draw bar on a Rockwell. I have no experience with the lever style.

I'm thinking that the lever style would be more accurate than the chuck since it's locating directly off the spindle. The 5-C chuck is pretty easy to take on/off, looks like there's a little work to the lever style.

Another few questions on the lever style. I'm assuming when using a chuck the attachment is removed or at least the draw bar and spindle adapter? Do the collets screw into the draw tube at the spindle adapter? I've seen a collet wrench advertised that has 3 blades for removing the collets. My assumption is the blades go into the slots on the collet, then turn the collet in/out? Obviously a different wrench for square collets.

Thanks for the advice,

Bruce

 

[TommyD]

We have a collet chuck, 2 actually, that mount to the spindle by 3 cam lock pins and both run out more than I like. Stick the collet in, rotate the round outside ring to tighten the collet. I've fiddled with them both and marginally improved run out but they both still run out, just don't have enough time (attention span ) to keep fiddling with them but they are on my list, so much stuff here that has been neglected. I have worked with threaded draw bars and the lever style. I believe you need a fixture on the end of the lathe that handle/snap attachment apparatus mounts to. I prefer collets that run in the id of the spindle, haven't had any issues with that style. My way of thinking is, the more involved/moving parts the greater chance of error.

I'm sorry, I don't remember how the snap handle system worked (old timers disease) but I seem to remember the rig on the back of the lathe stayed attached when I ran a chuck on the spindle. This was on a Southbend.

 

[Kernbigo]

I have a 5c collet setup which screws on to my spindle, 1 1/2" 8 south bend wide bed. Mine run with in .0002 on good harding collets. The hole trick is make the chuck adjustable so you can cram it in the first time.

 

[Dan_S]

They both have their benefits.

using an adapter in the spindle itself, makes the set up more rigid, and minimizes stick-out to almost nothing, but it relies on your spindle & the adapter being accurate, because you can't dial out any of ther run-out. A collet chuck is less rigid, and has more stickout, but if it's a set true type you can get the run-out to zero.

 

[Wobbles]

I have a 50's Logan setup with the lever style. The draw length on my setup seems to be about 1/4 inch which allows a full release of the part in a VERY quick manner. It's a serious time advantage when making multiple parts, especially where you are feeding stock though the headstock. And the minimum/maximum grip is completely adjustable, as with any other collet system.

When I mount a chuck all I do is remove the collet, holder and thread guard. The draw bar and lever are happy to stay in place. There's a little ticking and ringing, but no more than the engaged lead screw generates on a normal basis.

 

[BGHansen]

Thanks for the great advice. I'm going to pick up the lever style closer. Another member on the site sent me some photos of his set up on the G0709 lathe and a Grizzly lever collet closer.

Curious, what do you use for a spindle protector on a lathe with a D1-5 spindle? CDCO has a 6" D1-5 chuck adapter for $48, or maybe a plate with 3 of the 6 pins?

Thanks again, Bruce

 

[Silverbullet]

You may not even need a protector on the spindle. Lathes with threads are the ones that need protecting. If you want you could use a backer plate with no chuck or anything mounted just to keep crap from getting in your pin holes. The lever style collets adjust from the back of the lathe and when you open and close the same pressure is on each piece . You only set it once and just load and. Lock the lever , when done release and repeat . Save lots of time using them with multiple pieces. The one I had on my old Sheldon was super accurate, I ran lots of government items and never had a redo. Gota love a good reputation with them.

 

[Doubleeboy]

If I was to run lots of identical parts I would use a lever collet closer. If I wanted to run a short run or single part with a collet for the gentle but firm way they hold a part compared to a chuck, I would use a set tru collet chuck. On my 10ee I run a Hardinge lever closer or a Bison set tru collet chuck. I much prefer the chuck, but if I am going to do multiple parts I mount the lever closer. On my 16" D1-6 lathe I cobbled up a home made set tru back plate to a CDCO cheapo 5C chuck, works fine but not in same league as the Bison. The great thing about a set tru collet chuck is you can mount a previously worked on part, dial it in within a tenth or so and machine again with out distorting the part as its in a collet, good luck doing that with a 3 jaw or 4 jaw chuck on thin wall stuff.

On the other hand any collet set up is better than none.

cheers
michael

 

[TommyD]

I'd love to have the ability to use collets, it's on my getting lenghty Christmas list.