6561-h 14x40 Apron Oil

mksj said:
Most newer hypoid gear oils/EP additives do not attack brass/bronze bushings when I spoke to to their tech department about this, but it is worth checking. I have contacted a few oil manufactures (Amsoil and Valvoline) regarding this. I use Amsoil synthetic hypoid EP geari oil in my lathe head. You can always check the spec sheet "Copper Strip Corrosion ASTM D130". There can be an issue with some gear oils that are specified for limited slip differentials, they have formulations which are slightly stickier to work with wet differential clutch pack. A gear differential oil cannot necessarily be used in a transmission, especially newer cars. Valvoline indicated: "The Valvoline High Performance Gear Oil 80-w90 can be used for both GL4 and GL5. The real concern is the type of sulfate used in the gear oil. You can not use an active sulfate for GL-4 applications. Valvoline uses an inactive sulfate that will not harm any yellow metal such as bronze. This allows our products to be used in manual transmissions that have bronze synchronizers."
I use a Amsoil Gear Lube 75W/80W-90 (AGM) in my gear head and picked up about a 100 RPM on the top end from less friction. Also much less foaming and stays clear much longer. I would expect varnish buildup to be nil.
http://www.autozone.com/greases-and...hetic-gear-oil-sae-75w-140-32-oz-/977483_0_0/

There does seem to be some controversy on the GL-4 and GL-5 specification and stability with yellow metals so I would check with the manufacturer, this article is worth reading. http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
Click to expand...




would you suggest the amsoil gear lube for my apron then? it has a number of gears with bronze bushings in it. but everything turning at a relatively slow speed in relation to a gear head lathe
 
wa5cab said:
The Logan 6560 manual had gotten mis-filed and ended up in one of the two Unknown folders (Categories). Knowing what to look for, I found it and moved it into the Logan Manuals folder. If you don't know the tricks to finding stuff (so long as it isn't mis-filed), read the Downloads Use instructions up in the Sticky section.
Click to expand...


i did find it and thank you very much.. it was very helpful


any idea if you could point me in a direction of a parts breakdown of the machine? thanks!
 
I'm sorry but best that I can do is suggest that you call Logan. I just re-checked Vintage Machinery and all that they have is the one you just downloaded.
 
Although I use Amsoil in my gear head, there are much cheaper alternatives. I have heard of a number of individuals using Lucas heavy duty gear oils like 85-140W available at most auto stores, they also make a full synthetic 75/140W that is rated for both differentials and transmissions. Just about any decent grade GL-4/Gl-5 gear oil should work, there is almost no stress on the gears and the GL-4 spec requires them to meet the ASTM D130 spec. The issue with older gear oils was the development of sulfuric acid which would eat yellow metals. Synchro's in manual transmission present a different issue, also some of the synthetic oils can be a problem with some of the older seals. This shouldn't be an issue in the lathe carriage, but could be a problem in the lathe headstock.
http://lucasoil.com/products/gear-oil/synthetic-gear-oil/lucas-sae-75w-140-synthetic-gear-oil
 
scott logan wants vactra 2 way oil in an gear fed apron with a pressure clutch? id think a gear oil made for rear end diffs would be better
 
This older post on this issue is worth reviewing. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/logan-2555-12-oil-in-the-apron.24622/
Basically the wear you are seeing appears to be pretty common, mostly because of low oil levels. I think the point that Bob K made in one of his posts, that the Vactra 2 oil is stickier and more likely to cling to the parts may be the reason for its recommendation in this case. Bottom line, I would use what is recommended by Scott Logan.
 
Sometimes I think we over think lubrication issues. As long as you keep your oil level where it should be just about any good oil would probably do the job in an apron. I've always used Vactra because some lathes have pumps in the apron that lube the ways and crosslde. If it's good enough for a 10EE it should work for a logan.
 
While there are "gears" inside the apron, they are not under enough load to warrant (or worry over) having to use a "gear oil". On the other end of the spectrum, most modern engine oils have so many friction fighting additives that I'd have to worry about the long term viability of the clutch. It's enough just to simply keep the apron wet and level topped up once a year.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top