7 X 12/14/16 inch mini lathe carriage lock LMS 2977 Review

Hot darn! I just tried that and it worked. It arrived without instructions, and I failed to fiddle with it.

I replaced the stock lever knob with a smaller Aluminum one (eBay):

100_0624.jpg


I had to add a spacer to keep the lever easily accessible, and placed a spring between top bracket and the locking plate so the locking plate would always drop clear when released.

I also added "extra" tapped holes on the Cross-Slide & Compound gibs so I could lock them, too:

IMG_2821.jpg


I put small ball bearings in the holes before inserting the locking levers rather than rounding the ends of screws to achieve point contact on the gibs.
 
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Do my eyes deceive me, or is that an LMS 7350 on your bench. I really like mine.
 
Do my eyes deceive me, or is that an LMS 7350 on your bench. I really like mine.
MicroMark 84631, 7 x 16, with a lot of modifications/additions. They are pretty much the same machine, but quality control on the LMS may be better. I'm happy with it since I don't have space for an 8.5 x 20. I also have an LMS 3990, but would love one of their bench mills (again, space - and cost - are a factor).
 
Thanks for the review of this. I have just been putting the machine in neutral and locking the half nut. Not the best but does work. After looking at several options I think I will make my own lock and put it on the tail stock side of the lathe.
 
Since posting the above, I've been looking into alternatives to the LMS Carriage Lock as I have never liked the location of the locking handle. All of the ideas I could find for the tailstock side of the saddle blocked access to the cross-slide gib screws or my cross-slide lock:

Lathe Cross Slide Lock.jpg



However, I realized I had a third option for the location of a carriage lock: if you look closely at the photo above, you will see that I modified the saddle retainer setup. Combining ideas from Frank Hoose, Steve Jordan, LMS and David Fenner, I replaced the stock cap screws & set screws with M6-1.0 x 30mm set screws & Nylock nuts at the four corners:

Saddle Retainer Mod.jpg



This leaves the center hole in the back retainer empty, an the M6-1.0 hole in the saddle looking for something to do. The gap between the back retainer and bottom of the saddle is only about 0.005", so I tried using a cap screw to lock the carriage - it worked perfectly. I then made a locking bolt (tried one of my little blue adjustable lever wing nuts, but it was awkward):

CAC Carriage Lock.jpg


CAC Carriage Lock Parts.jpg


Carriage Lock Lever med.jpg



The body is made from 3/4” 12L14 round bar, the handle is 1/4” drill rod and the rest are hardware. The M6-1.0 x 25 setscrew and M4-0.7 cap nut are secured with red threadlocker, and the “working end” of the setscrew is coated with Vibra-Tite to prevent the lock from accidentally engaging. The cap nut finishes the handle nicely, and also provides a means of unscrewing the handle without having to mill flats on the shaft. The location of the cross hole for the handle was determined after everything else was assembled so it goes from unlock to lock with good access and room for wear without having to make a custom washer:

CAC Carriage Lock Installed 2.jpg


CAC Carriage Lock Installed 3.jpg



Since the lock is out of sight, I added a reminder label on the backslash:

CAC Carriage Lock Label.jpg



I've attached a drawing; anyone may use the concept for their personal use, but I would appreciate acknowledgement.
 

Attachments

  • CACC Carriage Lock Rev B RFS.pdf
    184.9 KB · Views: 173
  • Carriage Lock Lever.jpg
    Carriage Lock Lever.jpg
    33.6 KB · Views: 154
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