'73 Cuda Project

We've been working on this as time permitted, and got her rotating this afternoon. We don't have vertical clearance to go any more, it will be sufficient to work on the undercarriage. I had to move lathe to make room, so it isn't operational for now. I have plans to free up that side of the garage in the next few months and get her powered up again.
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Eastwood had a sale on their Contour SCT and I couldn't resist after watching videos of it working. It feels very solid. The wall mount stand is amazing. It was $35 w/free shipping on the order. It weighs 30 lbs alone, and cut by either water jet or something very high quality. I love it because it holds everything, including the allen wrenches for the wheel and handle. Kid and I are going to give it a go today on the undercarriage.

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Very useful tool for working on old cars, buy a replacement belt if its a belt drive, it's annoying when it fails in the middle of a job. That stand is worth every penny.
 
GoceKU said:
Very useful tool for working on old cars, buy a replacement belt if its a belt drive, it's annoying when it fails in the middle of a job. That stand is worth every penny.
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It came with a spare set of motor brushes. I'm not sure what kind of drive mechanism it has. I'll have to open it up. It might be a geared direct drive It has a soft start that ramps up to speed (variable), so you don't have to fight instant high-speed torque.
 
For the engine build.
Talk with Hughes, they only do Mopar. Also I would do Hydraulic Roller retrofit cam. Best drivability and power verses any flat tappet cam available. I have a 318 in my 36 Airstream coupe and Hughes is going to set me up with new cam and required parts to do the swap.


Excellent article on how roller compares to flat.
www.hotrod.com

Camshaft Comparison Testing

We did some camshaft comparison testing at the Westech Performance Group's testing facility, pitting flat-tappet cams vs. hydraulic cams in this power face-off.
www.hotrod.com www.hotrod.com

Lots of articles here. 3 pages of links.
www.forabodiesonly.com

Magazine Builds

Installing Exhaust Headers Into 300hp Crate Engine - Mopar Muscle Magazine Dyno-Test 360 Smog Motor - Mopar Muscle Magazine Chrysler 318 Engine - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine 318 Small Block Build - How To - Hot Rod Magazine...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
Piere
 
pdentrem said:
For the engine build.
Talk with Hughes, they only do Mopar. Also I would do Hydraulic Roller retrofit cam. Best drivability and power verses any flat tappet cam available. I have a 318 in my 36 Airstream coupe and Hughes is going to set me up with new cam and required parts to do the swap.


Excellent article on how roller compares to flat.
www.hotrod.com

Camshaft Comparison Testing

We did some camshaft comparison testing at the Westech Performance Group's testing facility, pitting flat-tappet cams vs. hydraulic cams in this power face-off.
www.hotrod.com www.hotrod.com

Lots of articles here.
www.forabodiesonly.com

Magazine Builds

Installing Exhaust Headers Into 300hp Crate Engine - Mopar Muscle Magazine Dyno-Test 360 Smog Motor - Mopar Muscle Magazine Chrysler 318 Engine - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine 318 Small Block Build - How To - Hot Rod Magazine...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
Piere
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I'm glad you mentioned Hughes because that is who I've been working with. Tim asked me to measure my combustion chambers so he can recommend a hydraulic roller setup. Thank you!
 
Dependent of the fuel you have available, i'll run as much compression as the fuel can support, i prefer turbo engines but on N/A engines compression is your friend, makes the engines much more responsive, here we have 100 octane on all gas pumps so i can run as high 12.5 :1 compression and have no concetable knock, look into a high compression engine the throttle response makes any classic very fun to drive.
 
Tim at Hughes will set you just fine. Just make sure your numbers and expectations of how you are going to drive the car.

Unless running E85, will be limited to around 9 or 9.5:1 CR for regular pump gas. I would build to the most likely available fuel, as one does not want to be stuck with a 12:1 engine and cheap 87 octane fuel away from home. To achieve high CR in a 340, one needs to use aftermarket small chamber heads or use ported and increase the valve sizes on "302" heads off a 85-88 318 pickup engine. This is using flat top pistons with less than .040" quench. Raised dome pistons can be used with open chamber heads, but have to match up with the expected valve lift!
Pierre
 
pdentrem said:
Tim at Hughes will set you just fine. Just make sure your numbers and expectations of how you are going to drive the car.

Unless running E85, will be limited to around 9 or 9.5:1 CR for regular pump gas. I would build to the most likely available fuel, as one does not want to be stuck with a 12:1 engine and cheap 87 octane fuel away from home. To achieve high CR in a 340, one needs to use aftermarket small chamber heads or use ported and increase the valve sizes on "302" heads off a 85-88 318 pickup engine. This is using flat top pistons with less than .040" quench. Raised dome pistons can be used with open chamber heads, but have to match up with the expected valve lift!
Pierre
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I have the W2 heads and intend to use them. About 10 miles away from me, in Redlands, is a 76 station with 100 octane. It's rare in CA, with only a handful of stations in So Cal. I'm hesitant to build a high compression engine without a good known and reliable supply. The car will be driven for shows and cruises, but not raced or used daily. I'd like to go FI, but the cost for this project can get out of control real quick! We'll see :grin:
 
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