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BRIAN
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Forgot the scan.
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I can work with that type of sketch/layout. I would want to confer on establishing tolerances and fits, but otherwise....that'll work.
Do you have something similar for all the components? Even a hand sketch of a piece with dimensions will be fine.
Do you have something similar for all the components? Even a hand sketch of a piece with dimensions will be fine.
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BRIAN
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Hi tony
I have all the gears scanned as I made them For other parts I will have to strip the clock . But this is no bid deal as I have to strip it for its final polish things I cant scan I will sketch.
As for fits and tolerances? don't worry in clockmaking you make things so they don't fit then taper ream the holes from both sides until
you get the fit you want. I will deal with this in the text. All the best clocks are made this way.
Also making the tool required for setting the gears.
I will send scans as I do them But just now I am trying to get a bit of Sailing in.
Regards BRIAN:
I have all the gears scanned as I made them For other parts I will have to strip the clock . But this is no bid deal as I have to strip it for its final polish things I cant scan I will sketch.
As for fits and tolerances? don't worry in clockmaking you make things so they don't fit then taper ream the holes from both sides until
you get the fit you want. I will deal with this in the text. All the best clocks are made this way.
Also making the tool required for setting the gears.
I will send scans as I do them But just now I am trying to get a bit of Sailing in.
Regards BRIAN:
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Sounds great, Brian. Enjoy your day on the water!
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Hi all
Back home again so its 2 more of my grotty drawings for Tony to scratch his head about,
Also as clock making appers to be more about art than enginering ,and a lot of you may only have a basic lathe, as I did when I made my first clock, a look at the tools required may not go amiss.
Those of you that have a fully equiped workshop please bear with me while i ramble.
Back home again so its 2 more of my grotty drawings for Tony to scratch his head about,
Also as clock making appers to be more about art than enginering ,and a lot of you may only have a basic lathe, as I did when I made my first clock, a look at the tools required may not go amiss.
Those of you that have a fully equiped workshop please bear with me while i ramble.
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If you look at the bottom of the second drawing you will find a PDF.for a toolpost milling atachment.
Brian
Brian
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BRIAN
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Hi All
Back again with a little more information on tools.
Firstly a recomendation to look at www.m-p.co.uk a mine of info for the clockmaker and very helpful.
Secondly a PDF on The depthing tool. and its construction.
Please tell me if I seem to get things wrong, Remember I am just a Hobby Machinist.
Back again with a little more information on tools.
Firstly a recomendation to look at www.m-p.co.uk a mine of info for the clockmaker and very helpful.
Secondly a PDF on The depthing tool. and its construction.
Please tell me if I seem to get things wrong, Remember I am just a Hobby Machinist.
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So far, so good, Brian. I can work with these sketches. Been real busy the last couple of weeks, and will be for another week or so, but plan to get going on those soon. I'll post as they are done.
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OK next item to think about is gear cutters,
Professional cutters (the one on the right) are expensive,
this one for cutting the steel pinions costs about $100 and will only cut 8 leaf pinions "GULP"If you are only going to make one clock this may just be to much. But help is at hand a few company's IAN T COB. in the UK for one, cut pinions for a reasonable charge, the other option is to make pinions of the lantern type See photo.
The cutter on the left is a cutter for cutting wheels from brass a less demanding job, so a cheaper cutter can be used, it will also cut all the remaining gears in the clock.
this particular cutter came from www.timekeepersworkbench.com Lititz,PA USA. and cost $31.50 I think a bargin.
Professional cutters (the one on the right) are expensive,
this one for cutting the steel pinions costs about $100 and will only cut 8 leaf pinions "GULP"If you are only going to make one clock this may just be to much. But help is at hand a few company's IAN T COB. in the UK for one, cut pinions for a reasonable charge, the other option is to make pinions of the lantern type See photo.
The cutter on the left is a cutter for cutting wheels from brass a less demanding job, so a cheaper cutter can be used, it will also cut all the remaining gears in the clock.
this particular cutter came from www.timekeepersworkbench.com Lititz,PA USA. and cost $31.50 I think a bargin.
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Of we go with the last few tools on the list.
In clockmaking the arbors are never made to a precise size the pivots are turned very slightly oversize then cleaned up with a pivot file( I use fine wet or dry stuck to a strip of steel with double sided tape) after this the surface is burnished to a bright finish with a special tool . my burnisher is a wood chisel that has been sanded on the belt sander to provide the grained surface necessary for it to do its work.
The pivot holes in the plates are drilled undersize then reamed out with a tapered 5 sided broach from both sides until the pivot fits So this is a tool you cannot do without. Luckily they are not expensive.
When marking out the holes in the plates we use a sharp punch to start,then enlarge the mark with a small drill either held in a pin vise or as I do a small Archimedes drill. This gives you the chance to make corrections if nessasary.
This now only leaves the suject of dividing To be covered next time.
In clockmaking the arbors are never made to a precise size the pivots are turned very slightly oversize then cleaned up with a pivot file( I use fine wet or dry stuck to a strip of steel with double sided tape) after this the surface is burnished to a bright finish with a special tool . my burnisher is a wood chisel that has been sanded on the belt sander to provide the grained surface necessary for it to do its work.
The pivot holes in the plates are drilled undersize then reamed out with a tapered 5 sided broach from both sides until the pivot fits So this is a tool you cannot do without. Luckily they are not expensive.
When marking out the holes in the plates we use a sharp punch to start,then enlarge the mark with a small drill either held in a pin vise or as I do a small Archimedes drill. This gives you the chance to make corrections if nessasary.
This now only leaves the suject of dividing To be covered next time.