9x 16 horizontial bandsaw problems

J

jester69

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Hi, my name is Rick I've been lurking in the back ground for awhile, A lkot of good information here. I hope someone can help me with this.

I was given a 9x16 hor. bandsaw by a friend, he couldnot keep the blade from running off the wheels, there is no name on the saw he doesn't know who made it either, but it looks just like an enco 9x16.

I totaly dissembled it cleaned and painted, there are 2 adjustments on the left side wheel to set tracking, I worked on that for about 2 days and finnally got the blade to track properly, the problem was the gear box driven wheel the one on the right was not parrellel with the housing, so I placed some washers between the housing and the gear box on one side and that fixed that, now the blade tracks properly and stays on the wheels.

Ok so here is the problem finnally. blade on , tension set, piece in clamp, motor running, , blade lowered in to the work, ( 1/2 x 6" plate ), the blade cuts almost half way across the plate, then the blade stops moving and the wheel on the gear continues to turn, if you don't turn off the saw the blade will run down and off the wheel. I've tried tighting the tension but that doesn't seem to help.I put another piece in and the same thing happened.

does anyone have some ideas, I've almost gone brain dead with this thing.

Thanks Rick
 
I'm not an expert but here is a thought about a problem I had. The down force from the weight of the upper frame, wheels, and stuff is countered by a spring that puts an up force on them. The spring should be adjusted to reduce the down force to keep the blade teeth from "digging in". The spring was missing when I got my old WF Wells bandsaw and I had the problem your seeing. A quick test for this problem is to hold up on the blade frame up with your hand and see if it can complete a cut while doing this. I don't have my bandsaw operator manual handy but I think the down-force (weight) after spring adjustment recommended for mine was aroung 40 pounds. Holding the frame by hand is recommended as a break-in for new blades which will be extra sharp and tend to hang (dig-in). The better bandsaws also have a hydraulic cylinder to control (slow) the down-travel speed. It should be repaired and/or adjusted to help with this problem also.

I have a copy of the procedure for new blade break-in but will need to find it. If you don't have it let us know and one of us will try and find and forward the procedure or a link to it if you need.

Benny
 
Thanks Benny, I understand what you are saying, I do have the springs on the end of the saw, and the hydrulic cylinder all works very well after I rebuilt tthe cylinder and made adjustments. I will try holding up on the frame as you suggest.I have the feed rate on the cylinder ( down force ) ver slow and the saw is running in the slowest speed. I would like a copy of those adjustments you were talking about if you can find them, I have no paper work with this machine.
Rick
 
I had the same problem with a HF bandsaw, every time I would cut something the blade would pop off (please note that I was using HF Blades). A friend told me to buy a quality blade and try that, which I did and no more blade issues. prior to that I trued and recrowned the wheels replaced the bearings on the blade guides etc. and it still did not work with cheap blades.
 
My first thought was the blade -- thats a rather long cut and would ideally need about a 6-10 tooth blade. Check your blade and see if it might be a fine tooth (16-20-24) if so the teeth can load up and start binding... can also be a dull/bad blade...
 
Thanks for replying KD7, I have a new bi-metal blade which is high quality, guide bearing look good, and smooth but I havn't changed them. I 'm famillar also with wood cutting bandsaws, I have a 26 " silver I restored, it has rubber tires and I crowned them. But on this metal saw the wheels are flat with a over hang ledge at the top that you bump the top edge of the blade up against, its metal against metal no rubber tires.

Thanks Rick
 
OK, that sure lets that out! that should be about a perfect blade -- hmmmm!
 
Could the frame be twisted? (with the saw in the upright position) Adjust the upper blade parallel with the lower one, check that both wheels are in line by using a long staight edge, use a long enough one that will rest on both rims of both wheels, measuring at the center. than check the left and right side of the wheel close to the edge. There should be contact on the upper and lower portions of both wheels, if not the frame could be twisted or the upper wheel support is not square with the lower one. Sorry for the long rant.
 
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