A bit of chemistry

[Pevehouse]

No, but as stated above, alcohol or WD40 will help get rid of any water residue.
WD40 might be better since it adds a layer of "oil" in the process.

I am a chemist by training and profession. I would neutralize the acid with a base, Baking soda, washing soda, etc. Rinse with cold water, followed by an immediate dry with towels and warm air. Use a heat gun rather than a torch since the water in the combustion products from a torch will condense on the steel. There is also a possibility of altering any heat treatment if a torch is used. Then application of a light protective coating of oil should keep the steel rust free until assembly.

Non polar solvents like lacquer thinner won't be effective at removing oil. However, WD40 is a known water displacement product. I would still wipe dry and dry with warm air prior but it will help to eliminate water in tight corners.

I also have a gallon of wd40

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I also have a gallon of wd40

Damn, Peve is a baller!

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Ok, that’s what I will do. I have had my experience with flash rusting and figured someone in here would have a better method. Thank you

Hot water is the last step I use to help dry off things where Im worried about rust.

VERY hot water for a rinse so the part has time to come up to temperature, then dry with paper towels and maybe some air, or just set it in front of the humidifier or a small shop heater.

 

[RJSakowski]

Hot water is the last step I use to help dry off things where Im worried about rust.

VERY hot water for a rinse so the part has time to come up to temperature, then dry with paper towels and maybe some air, or just set it in front of the humidifier or a small shop heater.

You mean dehumidifier, right?

 

[Ken226]

I've cleaned out many rusted motorcycle gas tanks using vinegar. Buy a few cheap gallon jugs at the grocery store and fill the tank, then let it sit overnight.

The next day, I rinse it out with water, then follow up with a thorough rinse using half a box of baking soda in some water, to neutralize the vinegar. It always results in bright, shiny steel inside the gas tank. I've restored some that were so rusty inside, that once the vinegar dissolved the rust, they sprung a couple dozen leaks.

I bet soaking your transmission parts in vinegar overnight, then using baking soda to neutralize the vinegar would work.

 

[tim81]

I am a chemist by training and profession. I would neutralize the acid with a base, Baking soda, washing soda, etc. Rinse with cold water, followed by an immediate dry with towels and warm air. Use a heat gun rather than a torch since the water in the combustion products from a torch will condense on the steel. There is also a possibility of altering any heat treatment if a torch is used. Then application of a light protective coating of oil should keep the steel rust free until assembly.

Non polar solvents like lacquer thinner won't be effective at removing oil. However, WD40 is a known water displacement product. I would still wipe dry and dry with warm air prior but it will help to eliminate water in tight corners.

Will kerosene help with the wet part. To wipe it with kerosene/oil mix

 

[RJSakowski]

Will kerosene help with the wet part. To wipe it with kerosene/oil mix

Although WD40 allegedly contains kerosene, kerosene by itself is a nonpolar solvent and doesn't mix with water. Acetone mixes with water and can remove traces of water. Wipe liberally with acetone and drain or wipe off and follow with the with the kerosene/oil mix.

 

[tim81]

Although WD40 allegedly contains kerosene, kerosene by itself is a nonpolar solvent and doesn't mix with water. Acetone mixes with water and can remove traces of water. Wipe liberally with acetone and drain or wipe off and follow with the with the kerosene/oil mix.

Thanks man will remember this one

 

[RaisedByWolves]

You mean dehumidifier, right?

LOL, yes.

 

[tim81]

So I combination of acetone:kerosene:”oil” might be good for cleaning parts? 1:2:3 or 2:1:3 or 2:1:2