A sheet metal bending test, rotary shear review (preliminary)

homebrewed

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The rotary shear I ordered online arrived today, so I mounted it on a scrap piece of wood and did a few tests. Like the metal snips I've used in the past, it appears to take some attention to get relatively straight cuts .... but it isn't quite so difficult to "keep on track" compared the snips because the sheet halves don't have to spread apart so much when making longer cuts. It also doesn't warp the pieces quite so much, for the same reason. The metal on the right side gets a little more bent up, but that was for cuts that weren't particularly wide. Wider cuts might result in less warpage on the "waste" side of the shear.

The serrations on the top cutting wheel do a good job of grabbing the sheet metal for easy feeding, but the downside is that they leave a distinctive serrated edge. My current projects don't depend on cosmetics all that much so it's not a problem at the moment. One way to get around that, at least when making enclosures, is to include "hems" that are bent toward the inside of the box, so those ugly looking edges are out of sight.

Now, on to some dimensional tests I did. I cut a couple of 2" long "coupons" out of some .025" thick aluminum sheet, scribed a centerline, then bent them around that centerline on my el-cheapo HF 18" brake. To minimize the radius on the inside of the bend I went as far past 90 degrees as I could, given the top clamping piece, then bent the flap back to 90 degrees. The clamping piece is ground at a slight angle to permit bending a little past 90. BTW I have the clamping piece offset from the bend point by the thickness of the sheet metal stock, .025". This might be a factor in the results I got, see below.

Then I measured the distance from the top edge to the inside surface of the opposing bend, and did the same from the bottom edge. In this case the "top" edge is the free, or unconstrained side of the bend and the "bottom" is the clamped-down side.

I measured some noticeable offset -- the clamped-down side loses about .026" (compared to the exact center of the unbent coupon) and the free side gains something between .016-020"

Are these results typical for bending up sheet metal, or am I doing something wrong? The main reason I'm asking is that I want to make matching lids for the boxes so they need to reasonably match the box outside dimensions. I notice that the clamped-down side's offset is pretty close to the thickness of the sheet metal, so I'm thinking that the offset I've got for the clamping piece is playing a role here. As long as the offsets are consistent I can allow for that when I lay out the bend lines.
 
Been there done that- I think the offset needs to be about 1.5x the thickness of the stock, but it takes some trial and error
 
I have to say you are quite scientific in your bending efforts. After reading your post several
times I am still not understanding the losses and gains part probably due to my sinister handed
gray matter. This is an interesting subject and I know there is a lot to learn in the process. I have
a finger brake I have used for electronic enclosures but have not gotten the best results blaming it
mostly on my ineptitude. I'm thinking one needs to allow the thickness of the metal, maybe more,
added to the size of a piece of metal for each bend. I need to read a tutorial on the subject to
better my skills. Keep up the good work my friend.:encourage:
 
Look at some online bending calculators. Even if you don't use one, it will get you a framework of variables to consider.
 
I have to say you are quite scientific in your bending efforts. After reading your post several
times I am still not understanding the losses and gains part probably due to my sinister handed
gray matter. This is an interesting subject and I know there is a lot to learn in the process. I have
a finger brake I have used for electronic enclosures but have not gotten the best results blaming it
mostly on my ineptitude. I'm thinking one needs to allow the thickness of the metal, maybe more,
added to the size of a piece of metal for each bend. I need to read a tutorial on the subject to
better my skills. Keep up the good work my friend.:encourage:
It's that 40 years of working as an engineer. You can't undo that!

However, my brain didn't go totally digital because I worked on a lot of analog stuff.
 
I'm a little surprised that the bend allowance doesn't appear to depend on the type of metal being bent, since steel is considerably stiffer than aluminum. Still some things to learn, I guess.

There will be many variables for you to consider to take in account for bending sheet metal.

Your best bet while doing tests is take good notes/ observations of results after bending. I used to put a line on the workpiece to measure/ reference to after bending. After doing a couple, I could more accurately bend stuff with the dimensions I desired.

But, I am now rusty, and I would need to do a couple test pieces to educate my mind if I was to bend something today.

Biggest things to take into consideration is how tight of a bend do you need, vs the thickness of material you are using. Next is your bending equipment. Can it hold and bend to your desired bend radius? If you have to make the radius larger to be able to bend it, your part legs will grow more. A tight 90 will use more material than one with a large radius 90.

Plan on several test pieces. And make sure you use test pieces the width your finished part is. A 1” wide test piece may give very different results when you bend a 12” long piece, if your bender is a bit on the light side.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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SolidWorks has a sheet metal mode. I create the bent up model but can flatten it for a drawing. When I create a working drawing and dimension it, SolidWorks determines the offset for the bends. That is a starting point as I find that the actual bend depends on the material and temper.

I will scribe reference lines on the work and measure the appropriate distances on the bent work to determine corrections. If the fit is critical, I will bend up a test piece first. The test piece will give me a good indication as to what will happen when I bend the workpiece.

Another thing that I will do if possible is to leave extra material and trim it to dimension after I make the bends.
 
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