[How do I?] Add A Toggle Switch To A Trigger Controlled Portable Band Saw

[TIGL]

So I have this benchtop horizontal bandsaw from little machine shop and it's great.
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I even made a vertical conversion for it so that I can use it as a stand up saw for contour cutting of sheet metal etc.

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has tried to add a toggle switch to something like this that has a NO-momentary push button (trigger) switch. The trigger makes sense in the portable configuration for safety, it's a minor annoyance in the horizontal configuration on long cuts but it's impossible to use in the vertical configuration since I use both hands to feed the workpiece into the blade. Any advice? Is it as simple as finding an appropriate toggle switch and connecting it in parallel with the trigger and fitting it into the housing?

Also, the specs on the LMS site lists the power requirements as 8A at 125VAC. That seems awfully high for a hand tool but I guess I should take it at face value for safety.

 

[JimDawson]

Use a zip-tie on the trigger, then plug the saw into switched plug on the stand. Most standard light switches are rated at 15 amps.

Harbor Freight also sells a plug in foot switch that's rated at 15 amps

 

[mike837go]

My first thought was, "Why?"

Then I saw your countertop conversion.

I'll give and x2 on Mr. Dawson's suggestion of locking the trigger on and using a foot switch. Don't try and modify the case or cord unnecessarily.

 

[TIGL]

I had been using some wire to hold down the trigger but plugging and unplugging the cord was starting to be a pain. a power strip or something similar is probably a better answer. Thanks!

 

[Eddyde]

+3 on Jim's suggestion. That way, you won't void the warrantee and you can still safely use the machine handheld, if necessary

 

[mzayd3]

What the others said. I used a velcro band for mine, makes it easy to undo and re-use.

 

[TIGL]

+3 on Jim's suggestion. That way, you won't void the warrantee and you can still safely use the machine handheld, if necessary

Well the idea would have been to put the toggle switch in addition to the trigger so either could be used. Trigger for portable use, toggle for bench use. But yes, not killing the warranty would be a good thing.

velcro sounds like a winner

 

[Fabrickator]

I made a couple of portable switched outlet "drop box" for just this purpose. Wire a light switch in a single gang box with a plug dongle on one end and a single receptacle dongle on the other end. Or, use a 2 gang box and put a switch and duplex receptacle in the box with a plug dongle. I made another one with a switch in a box, a plug dongle and 3-wires with alligator clips (dangerous) at the other end to use for carefully testing electrical components, motors, etc.. Better than what most people do, stick bare wires in a receptacle slot...

 

[hman]

+1 on all the suggestions of tying down the trigger and using an external switch. I didn't know HF sold a foot switch, so I guess I'll have to go and have a look. As an alternative, check out the "Safety switch" described in the attached PDF. This is something I came up with about 5 years ago, and I've used it on a number of tools since then. It's easy to adapt, or you can mount it on a suitable base and use it as a stand-alone switched outlet.

 

[joshua43214]

Use a zip-tie on the trigger, then plug the saw into switched plug on the stand. Most standard light switches are rated at 15 amps.

Harbor Freight also sells a plug in foot switch that's rated at 15 amps

^^ This

Just use a cheap power strip, I doubt that it really draws anything close to what the box says unless the motor is getting stalled.