Advice on knurling titanium

Titanium Knurler said:
Hello All, first post here. I have some questions on straight knurling a 5/16”, Grade 5 titanium rod. I would like to knurl a 24”-36” rod creating 12 teeth along it’s length. The toothed rod will then be cut into shorter 11” pieces and two inches of the end turned down and threaded to 1/4-20. My questions are mostly related to whether it is possible to form knurl titanium. The local machine shop that would be doing the work does not think it is possible to knurl titanium. I have done some research and this is what I would like him to try:

Dorian Heavy Duty, three wheel knurling tool(3WKT-40-M,UPC23033)
Cobalt,12TPI, beveled knurling wheels(MS-12-CB,p/n 25339)

My calculations using the information on the Dorian website indicate that this set-up would form(not cut) 11.2 teeth(fine for my application and hopefully close enough that I won’t have any double tracking) and would give me a tooth elevation of .031 inches(also fine for what I m doing.

Does anyone have any experience with knurling titanium? Does anyone have experience with the Dorian three wheel knurling tool? Is what I propose possible with titanium or should I give up on this project as the machine shop suggests?

Thanks for your help!

I will try to post a link to Dorians website(doriantool.com) if it is possible to post links on this forum, so that you can see the three wheel knurling tool that I am considering. The website also has a nice little video of the the three wheel knurler in action on a long thin rod. Looks great to me, but will it knurl Grade 5 titanium?

I will also try to attach a photo of piece similar to what I want to make out of titanium, it’s just about half the length of what I want to make.
View attachment 254842
Click to expand...
Titanium Knurler said:
Hello All, first post here. I have some questions on straight knurling a 5/16”, Grade 5 titanium rod. I would like to knurl a 24”-36” rod creating 12 teeth along it’s length. The toothed rod will then be cut into shorter 11” pieces and two inches of the end turned down and threaded to 1/4-20. My questions are mostly related to whether it is possible to form knurl titanium. The local machine shop that would be doing the work does not think it is possible to knurl titanium. I have done some research and this is what I would like him to try:

Dorian Heavy Duty, three wheel knurling tool(3WKT-40-M,UPC23033)
Cobalt,12TPI, beveled knurling wheels(MS-12-CB,p/n 25339)

My calculations using the information on the Dorian website indicate that this set-up would form(not cut) 11.2 teeth(fine for my application and hopefully close enough that I won’t have any double tracking) and would give me a tooth elevation of .031 inches(also fine for what I m doing.

Does anyone have any experience with knurling titanium? Does anyone have experience with the Dorian three wheel knurling tool? Is what I propose possible with titanium or should I give up on this project as the machine shop suggests?

Thanks for your help!

I will try to post a link to Dorians website(doriantool.com) if it is possible to post links on this forum, so that you can see the three wheel knurling tool that I am considering. The website also has a nice little video of the the three wheel knurler in action on a long thin rod. Looks great to me, but will it knurl Grade 5 titanium?

I will also try to attach a photo of piece similar to what I want to make out of titanium, it’s just about half the length of what I want to make.
View attachment 254842
Click to expand...
I found a company that sells knurled bar stock in 12 ft of shorter lengths.
Their name is RA - White phone 800 556-4452
If I read it right they have a 316 ss bar 1 inch dia 12 ft long 35 # for $160 shipped.
They say Allmost any metal can be knurled.
 
Wreck, thanks for your input. I am genuinely surprised at the help I have received. I am also surprised at how difficult this project seems to accomplish.

I did finally get a response from Dorian. He feels it can be accomplished with the three roller knurling tool but recommends 20 TPI instead of the 12 TPI I had planned due to the small diameter of the stock and it would be less likely to double track.

I will keep you posted.
 
magicniner said:
is your knurl creating an equivalent material deformation/displacement to 12 TPI knurl on 5/16 rod with well in excess of 40 though diameter increase though? ;-)
Click to expand...

I haven't the faintest clue what this means (-:

I will not buy this record it is scratched.
 
Mikey, all really good points! You ever have a project that you thought would be simple and before you know it your thinking about buying a thousand dollars worth of tools for a one-off! Well, I am there. I need to reel myself in a bit. Your idea of just roughing up the surface and gluing the damn thing is a reasonable approach and will most likely do it but first I have to check out the great lead from Jimsehr about RA White. An old company that says that can knurl just about anything-thanks Jimsehr. Unfortunately I will have to wait until Monday. Thanks again everyone for your help!
 
I must admit that I don't think I have ever held titanium in my hand...
 
Wreck, tried to cut and paste a photo of it but was unable. If you go to www.doriantool.com and go to pg. H55 of their knurling catalogue you will see photos of it. The website also has a link to a brief YouTube of it in action. Great idea for small diameter stuff.
Bob, my first time working with titanium-needed the strength, lightness and corrosion resistance. Very important project-there are fish to be caught!
 
[QUOTE="Titanium Knurler, post: 548072, member: 49201"You ever have a project that you thought would be simple and before you know it your thinking about buying a thousand dollars worth of tools for a one-off! [/QUOTE]

Every single one of us will be in this situation at some point, and I have been there before myself.

I've built maybe 50 rods so far, from beach casters to small game to Ulua rods. I have used cord, Hypalon and cork and never thought I needed a knurled surface to hold grip material. Not saying you shouldn't but a properly roughed up and cleaned surface will bond cork tightly with the right epoxy. I use regular 2-part epoxy, not the 5 minute stuff and never had a grip come apart. Maybe give it some thought.
 
Thanks Mikey, I believe I am rapidly approaching that solution. Will just follow-up on last lead on CA knurling company. If that falls through I will get out the sandpaper and glue. Hate to give up.
 
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